Ejector spring

[ironhead7544]

I also fussed with the steves spring. I found that if you put the spring against the projection on the bottom of the bolt and the collar over the projection this will hold it in place. Then put the dummy round in place. Insert the bolt into the action until the dummy brass is just entering the chamber. Turn the rifle over and move the bolt until you can see where the lever needs to go. Then insert the lever and push the bolt up to where you can put the pin in. A lot of people have trouble with this. With the shorter stock spring it just pops together. I recent did one by cutting 2 coils off the stock spring and it works OK but I prefer the steves.

The lever pushes against the collar and spring when it is all the way down. This give the spring quite a bit more pressure.

[Ninety Caliber]

I guess I'm the only one, but I like the stock spring . Talked to a really knowledgable gunsmith who told me that if I wanted the rifle to feed .38 AND .357 to leave it. I modified that lever lock spring which smoothed it up the way I like em! Mine is used for CAS and hunting.

[jnewell]

I guess I'm the only one, but I like the stock spring . Talked to a really knowledgable gunsmith who told me that if I wanted the rifle to feed .38 AND .357 to leave it. I modified that lever lock spring which smoothed it up the way I like em! Mine is used for CAS and hunting.

Interesting...mine seems happy with everything from mid-weight .38 Specials to 180 gr .357 Magnums both before and after, but lever actions are pretty individual in their tastes.

[rookie7]

I'm not a gunsmith, but I can't see where the ejector spring has anything to do with feeding the cartridges? It's sole purpose is to eject spent casings. Maybe he was referring to the magazine spring?

I disassembled and reassembled my 92 this past weekend. It was easy due to a few instructions I found on the internet. Not as easy as my Marlin 1894's, but easy enough.

One thing I found that made reassembly of the bolt and lever really nice was this:

1. Put collar, spring, and ejector in bolt and drive pin in place to hold it. So at this point it is completely reassembled minus the lever.
2. Place dummy round in bolt face to depress ejector.
3. Slide bolt into receiver and lock into place in battery. (dummy round is now in chamber)
4. Drive out the ejector/lever retaining pin again.
5. Slide lever into place.
6. Replace pin.
7. Done.

You will have to slide the bolt back just a tad to line up the holes, but nothing major and everything stays in place. I got all of this done then realized I couldn't get the carrier in. So... had to take it back apart to install carrier prior to above steps.

I have a couple of questions if y'all can help:

1. Has anyone tried a spring from the hardware store or Fastenall to replace the ejector spring? I'm having a hard time wanting to pay $19 for a spring.
2. Does anyone mind sharing how much is stated to cut off of the magazine spring?

Another thought in regards to the trigger spring:

I think in Steve's video he recommends grinding it? The gunslinger kit replaces it with one that looks like an opened up paper clip.

Since it is flat steel and must retain it's contact surface area and shape on the trigger why not drill holes in it in the middle of the spring to reduce tension? So it essentially will look like a long pipe band that HVAC installers use to screw to rafters and such to hold A/C duct in place.

The only risk I can think of if a person drills 2 or 3 holes in a line in the middle of the spring the holes could create a hinge in the spring.

[Ranch Dog]

I'm not a gunsmith, but I can't see where the ejector spring has anything to do with feeding the cartridges? It's sole purpose is to eject spent casings. Maybe he was referring to the magazine spring?

SG is referring to the ejector spring. I''m going to clip something from your post...

2. Place dummy round in bolt face to depress ejector.
3. Slide bolt into receiver and lock into place in battery. (dummy round is now in chamber)

This spring must be compressed as the action is closed so it is very important to how the action cycles ammunition.

Honestly, I have several of the SG springs but have ended up not replacing any on the six current production rifles that I own. All mine feed great and pile the brass up in one spot. In fact, if I think about it I can catch the spent case.

Another thought in regards to the trigger spring:

I think in Steve's video he recommends grinding it? The gunslinger kit replaces it with one that looks like an opened up paper clip.

Since it is flat steel and must retain it's contact surface area and shape on the trigger why not drill holes in it in the middle of the spring to reduce tension? So it essentially will look like a long pipe band that HVAC installers use to screw to rafters and such to hold A/C duct in place.

The only risk I can think of if a person drills 2 or 3 holes in a line in the middle of the spring the holes could create a hinge in the spring.

I think it would be a great idea with the "risk" that you highlighted. Just, back it securely on a wooden block and drill it at a very low RPM.

This is another area I did not mess with on my rifles as the triggers are near perfect. I'm strictly a hunter, do a lot of that, and in the field if I just think about pulling the trigger, the bullet is gone. Any lighter and I would be seeing negligent discharges.

After a general cleanup plus cycling each action 500 times, well oiled and totally cleaned out at the halfway point, my rifles operated great. The 454 Casull need a cartridge guide adjustment. I now have 250 to 350 rounds out of each of the six and they are humming along just perfectly.

My feeling is that SG video supports the thought that each and every rifle needs the work and his improved parts before it can be shot. My experience with current production rifles is that they do not. Remember that the SG video was produced before Braztech was manufacturing the rifles. Besure you need the work before you start trimming parts.

[Ninety Caliber]

I'm not a gunsmith, but I can't see where the ejector spring has anything to do with feeding the cartridges? It's sole purpose is to eject spent casings. Maybe he was referring to the magazine spring?

SG is referring to the ejector spring. I''m going to clip something from your post...

2. Place dummy round in bolt face to depress ejector.
3. Slide bolt into receiver and lock into place in battery. (dummy round is now in chamber)

This spring must be compressed as the action is closed so it is very important to how the action cycles ammunition.

Honestly, I have several of the SG springs but have ended up not replacing any on the six current production rifles that I own. All mine feed great and pile the brass up in one spot. In fact, if I think about it I can catch the spent case.

Another thought in regards to the trigger spring:

I think in Steve's video he recommends grinding it? The gunslinger kit replaces it with one that looks like an opened up paper clip.

Since it is flat steel and must retain it's contact surface area and shape on the trigger why not drill holes in it in the middle of the spring to reduce tension? So it essentially will look like a long pipe band that HVAC installers use to screw to rafters and such to hold A/C duct in place.

The only risk I can think of if a person drills 2 or 3 holes in a line in the middle of the spring the holes could create a hinge in the spring.

I think it would be a great idea with the "risk" that you highlighted. Just, back it securely on a wooden block and drill it at a very low RPM.

This is another area I did not mess with on my rifles as the triggers are near perfect. I'm strictly a hunter, do a lot of that, and in the field if I just think about pulling the trigger, the bullet is gone. Any lighter and I would be seeing negligent discharges.

After a general cleanup plus cycling each action 500 times, well oiled and totally cleaned out at the halfway point, my rifles operated great. The 454 Casull need a cartridge guide adjustment. I now have 250 to 350 rounds out of each of the six and they are humming along just perfectly.

My feeling is that SG video supports the thought that each and every rifle needs the work and his improved parts before it can be shot. My experience with current production rifles is that they do not. Remember that the SG video was produced before Braztech was manufacturing the rifles. Besure you need the work before you start trimming parts.

I agree with Ranch Dog. I've got about 600 rounds through my .357 '92. Been my SASS main match rifle. I just modified my Lever-lock spring and carrier friction stud spring and mine is awesome! Steve's mods are directed towards SASS competitors who's sensibilities require a similar FEEL to a '73. The newer production '92 has an ejector spring that is shorter than the older ones and are allot easier to assemble as well because of it.
Shoot it and see how it feels. I also shortened the mag spring on mine to Steve's recommended length. If you do that you shouldn't need to modify the loading gate. With Steve's spring and his mods on a .357 you are tuning it so that it will feed shorter OAL cartridges at the expense (perhaps) of longer ie: .357's. Just My two

[pricedo]

I don't shoot SASS but I have an Amadeo Rossi M92/357 Trapper (16" bbl).
Other than the initial strip/clean/deburr/polish I haven't trimmed or clipped anything.........why mess with perfection?
Sometimes I don't think that gun has an action it is so smooth & slick but bullets keep coming out the muzzle so it must have.
I find my Rossi 92s to be slicker than my 94s.......the oscillating floor plate of the 94 is just one more part that needs to move with each cycle & adds inertia to the mechanism.
I still have the SG spring in the package the 92 tune-up DVD came in.........not needed.

[jnewell]

I don't shoot SASS but I have an Amadeo Rossi M92/357 Trapper (16" bbl).
Other than the initial strip/clean/deburr/polish I haven't trimmed or clipped anything.........why mess with perfection?
Sometimes I don't think that gun has an action it is so smooth & slick but bullets keep coming out the muzzle so it must have.
I find my Rossi 92s to be slicker than my 94s.......the oscillating floor plate of the 94 is just one more part that needs to move with each cycle & adds inertia to the mechanism.
I still have the SG spring in the package the 92 tune-up DVD came in.........not needed.

Yes, the 92 is a dream compared to the 94, but that was the price JMB's genius demanded for feeding the longer cartridges in an action that's not much longer - the Rube Goldberg-esque toggle link floor plate. People who've never handled a 92 have no idea how slick a little lever rifle can be.