primers and bullets questions
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primers and bullets questions
Ok reloading gurus out there couple of questions for you. I have been using CCI primers, however they are pretty scarce around here and have seen some remington large pistol primers, anyone ever use these for the .44 mag? Are there some primers you would recommend to stay away from? Also, how are lead cast bullets on the 92 barrels and any tips on using lead bullets? Never used lead and am curious since they are also easy to find and cheaper . Any advice for a newbie is greatly appreciated!
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Re: primers and bullets questions
Large pistol primers are large pistol primers so should be no issue with them. Cast bullets should be sized .430 for your R92 44 Mag. Both should do fine.OnTarget wrote:Ok reloading gurus out there couple of questions for you. I have been using CCI primers, however they are pretty scarce around here and have seen some remington large pistol primers, anyone ever use these for the .44 mag? Are there some primers you would recommend to stay away from? Also, how are lead cast bullets on the 92 barrels and any tips on using lead bullets? Never used lead and am curious since they are also easy to find and cheaper . Any advice for a newbie is greatly appreciated!
Michael
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Re: primers and bullets questions
i like some primers with certain powders,but for the most part they do their job with little change from one brand to another.
remington makes a fine primer and i would have no issues using them.
430 works in my rossi 44 mag rifles just fine, there is an occasional barell out there that needs something a little bigger.
i haven't heard of anything wanting bigger than 432 though.
remington makes a fine primer and i would have no issues using them.
430 works in my rossi 44 mag rifles just fine, there is an occasional barell out there that needs something a little bigger.
i haven't heard of anything wanting bigger than 432 though.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
The Remington primers should be fine. Primers dont seem to make much difference with pistol calibers. There have been exceptions so when looking for a load you may want to try different makers.
Best to slug the barrel for the right size diameter. Cast bullets work great once you find the right load.
Best advice for new people is to get a manual, or several, and study them. Lyman is good for cast bullet loads.
Best to slug the barrel for the right size diameter. Cast bullets work great once you find the right load.
Best advice for new people is to get a manual, or several, and study them. Lyman is good for cast bullet loads.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
I've noted in my .375 that the chamber and leade dimensions were more important than the groove diameter in terms of cast bullet diameter. The chamber and leade are pretty generous in my Big Bore 94 and I needed to go a little larger to fit the leade better to get good accuracy and no leading.
I struggle a bit with hot loads in .45 Colt in my 16" and 20" carbines. Light loads are accurate, but dirty, especially if you do not use a fast powder that will expand the case quickly. Heavy loads are a challenge as a slow burning powder gives great velocity at reasonable pressure but does not obturate the bullet soon enough with resulting gas cutting and leading. Like my .375 I suspect a slightly large bullet will resolve the problem (.454 diameter) but, I was tired of messing with load development on cold winter days, the loss of fun time on the range, and the need to de-lead the barrel after less than successful loads. So I loaded up some 250 gr Rainier plated bullets. They don't cost much more than good quality cast bullets and they are quite soft so obturation is a sure thing and the plating prevents any leading issues. They are not traditional looking but I get great accuracy with them and with the proper OAL they feed very smoothly.
You'll encounter the same basic challenges in .44 Mag, but just remember to have fun.
I struggle a bit with hot loads in .45 Colt in my 16" and 20" carbines. Light loads are accurate, but dirty, especially if you do not use a fast powder that will expand the case quickly. Heavy loads are a challenge as a slow burning powder gives great velocity at reasonable pressure but does not obturate the bullet soon enough with resulting gas cutting and leading. Like my .375 I suspect a slightly large bullet will resolve the problem (.454 diameter) but, I was tired of messing with load development on cold winter days, the loss of fun time on the range, and the need to de-lead the barrel after less than successful loads. So I loaded up some 250 gr Rainier plated bullets. They don't cost much more than good quality cast bullets and they are quite soft so obturation is a sure thing and the plating prevents any leading issues. They are not traditional looking but I get great accuracy with them and with the proper OAL they feed very smoothly.
You'll encounter the same basic challenges in .44 Mag, but just remember to have fun.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
Thanks for the info guys. A little worried about leading in the barrel, anything to worry about there?
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Re: primers and bullets questions
The major thing to look for is the proper bullet diameter. .001 over groove diameter is the norm, but on the other hand what works is what works and straight wall cases can be a little different, and improper sized bullets are the major contributor to leading.
The alloy also makes a difference. It's seems counter intuitive but too hard an alloy will cause leading and especially with a light load you'll need an allow soft enough to obturate in the bore quickly in order to avoid leading. Once the velocity and pressure get up there, then you'll need a harder alloy to match the higher pressure, and to a very limited extent the higher velocity. Once you're in that range however, you'll probably want to use a gas checked bullet.
In some cases, a fiber wad under the bullet will reduce leading. The 1/4" dacron batting used in quilting works well. Just cut in suitably small squares and press down on top of the powder with a pencil. That's something normally reserved for rifle calibers using non gas checked bullets, but it's nice to know about.
When/if you get leading, there are a couple chemical lad removers, or you can use Chore Boy copper cleaning pads. Cut off a small piece and wrap the strands around an old bronze bore brush and push it through the bore a few times.
You can feel lead in the bore with a cleaning rod and a tight patch. You'll literally feel the rough spots where the bore is leaded.
The alloy also makes a difference. It's seems counter intuitive but too hard an alloy will cause leading and especially with a light load you'll need an allow soft enough to obturate in the bore quickly in order to avoid leading. Once the velocity and pressure get up there, then you'll need a harder alloy to match the higher pressure, and to a very limited extent the higher velocity. Once you're in that range however, you'll probably want to use a gas checked bullet.
In some cases, a fiber wad under the bullet will reduce leading. The 1/4" dacron batting used in quilting works well. Just cut in suitably small squares and press down on top of the powder with a pencil. That's something normally reserved for rifle calibers using non gas checked bullets, but it's nice to know about.
When/if you get leading, there are a couple chemical lad removers, or you can use Chore Boy copper cleaning pads. Cut off a small piece and wrap the strands around an old bronze bore brush and push it through the bore a few times.
You can feel lead in the bore with a cleaning rod and a tight patch. You'll literally feel the rough spots where the bore is leaded.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
Model 52 thanks for that info! Another question about the lead bullets, do they need to be lubed before being seated on the casing? Saw something about this as well.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
Yes, the lube grooves are almost always inside the case.OnTarget wrote:Model 52 thanks for that info! Another question about the lead bullets, do they need to be lubed before being seated on the casing? Saw something about this as well.
Most companies sell cast bullet already lubed and sized, but there are a couple exceptions, so read the fine print. The difference in cost per 1000 is about $20, and unless you have a lubri-sizer already you'll want them pre-sized and lubed.
Lee also has bullets and molds intended for the bullets to be tumble lubed in liquid Alox. It works fine, but they look different and it smokes a bit more than some other lubes, probably because it covers the entire surface. It's not an issue unless you shoot on an indoor range.
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Re: primers and bullets questions
if you happen to get a little leading in the barell you can easily clean it out.
take a bore brush and wrap a little 00 steel wool or some COPPER chore boy around the brush.
wet it with some bore cleaner stuff and push the lead out of the barell.
much easier than trying to clean copper out.
if in doubt as to the diameter of storebought boolits to buy, get them one thousandth bigger rather than one thousandth smaller.
oh btw both my marlin and winchester 375's like 379 as their favorite dameter.
fitting the throat with enough boolit and mimicking the throats shape is the key to good accuracy.
making that work properly for you also relies on the brass holding everything in a straight line with the barells centerline.
take a bore brush and wrap a little 00 steel wool or some COPPER chore boy around the brush.
wet it with some bore cleaner stuff and push the lead out of the barell.
much easier than trying to clean copper out.
if in doubt as to the diameter of storebought boolits to buy, get them one thousandth bigger rather than one thousandth smaller.
oh btw both my marlin and winchester 375's like 379 as their favorite dameter.
fitting the throat with enough boolit and mimicking the throats shape is the key to good accuracy.
making that work properly for you also relies on the brass holding everything in a straight line with the barells centerline.