Factory Iron sights are atrocious. Front sight is very tall and has a small dark brass bead that is invisible in any lighting conditions. Rear sight horns obscure peripheral view of the target. Rear site groove is too narrow for the front sight, e.g. no light side to side when properly indexing the bead. Rear sight elevator has a hump so tall that at when placed on the three (of 6) lowest notches your view of the front sight is fully blocked by the rear sight elevator. As such, more than half the adjustment range of the sighting system is unusable. (e.g. all short and mid range settings are effectively rendered unusable by the tall hump of the elevator itself- this may be why there are so many complaints bout shooting high, you're effectively sighting off the top of the rear elevator, not the rear sight blade.)
Win 94 parts left, Rossi r92 right. The Winchester 94 sight and elevator will replace the less desirable Rossi r92 components. (The Rossi Dovetail cut may be slightly larger than standard, if so, raise a pimple or two in the bottom of the cut with a punch to tighten the fit.)
Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost
Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost
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Last edited by Sharps40 on 19 Jan 2024 08:20, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
Spare Winchester 94 sight in place and this problem is fixed.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
The forend wood sticks out over 1 inch past the forend band. Simple shortening of the forend, round over the cut edge, touch of light brown stain and shellac to seal. Just a quick zip with a hand saw and palm sander. No "fussing ." Totally changes the look of this 16" barreled rifle. It looks like it has a barrel now.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
Aftermarket metal followers are expensive and the winchester part is too large in diameter.
A spare bit of brass rod, bored .360 in the back to receive the spring. 2 diameters set up like the plastic plug and some wasp waist and semi wad cutter nose to reduce weight and friction.
I made it too long, so as to lock the lifter on the last shot. From there pared back the nose until the lifter was free to move on an empty gun. Its one way to get the length perfect and not have to measure anything.
The end of the mag spring was tapered 6 coils to freely compress in the new follower's base. This was done by carefully winding the spring around progressively smaller drill rod. When done, I created one dead coil on the end so it seats evenly.
Easy to load and reliable. No charge, no wait.
A spare bit of brass rod, bored .360 in the back to receive the spring. 2 diameters set up like the plastic plug and some wasp waist and semi wad cutter nose to reduce weight and friction.
I made it too long, so as to lock the lifter on the last shot. From there pared back the nose until the lifter was free to move on an empty gun. Its one way to get the length perfect and not have to measure anything.
The end of the mag spring was tapered 6 coils to freely compress in the new follower's base. This was done by carefully winding the spring around progressively smaller drill rod. When done, I created one dead coil on the end so it seats evenly.
Easy to load and reliable. No charge, no wait.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
Just to see what could be done with no polish, no cutting/grinding, no new/over priced parts, etc.
Factory trigger pull was ok, 4 lbs 6 ounces and a touch of take up. (The trigger/sear of this model directly impinges the hammer, so no floppy trigger like the 94 and the 336.)
That trigger/sear spring in the middle is a beast. You can replace it with a $95 spring and trigger from a well known parts maker, or thin the factory spring, bend the factory spring, even shape the factory spring like an hour glass to reduce trigger pull.
Or, you can spend no money and ruin no parts by trying a trigger spring shim.
I went out into the back yard and picked up a 28g shotgun wad and cut out a shim to go between spring and tang. (Spring shims used to be leather and commonly found under the mainspring of old SAA revolvers.)
1 thickness of shotgun wad petal reduced pull to 3.4 lbs with a touch of take up.
Folding over the forward end of the shotgun wad shim to make it 2 thicknesses, reduced trigger pull to 2 lbs 14 ounces, still just a touch of take up.
Its worth playing around with different thicknesses of shim to see what you get when the screw is torqued into place.
Its back together now and functioning fine. I guess I'll spend that $95 + shipping on something else.
Factory trigger pull was ok, 4 lbs 6 ounces and a touch of take up. (The trigger/sear of this model directly impinges the hammer, so no floppy trigger like the 94 and the 336.)
That trigger/sear spring in the middle is a beast. You can replace it with a $95 spring and trigger from a well known parts maker, or thin the factory spring, bend the factory spring, even shape the factory spring like an hour glass to reduce trigger pull.
Or, you can spend no money and ruin no parts by trying a trigger spring shim.
I went out into the back yard and picked up a 28g shotgun wad and cut out a shim to go between spring and tang. (Spring shims used to be leather and commonly found under the mainspring of old SAA revolvers.)
1 thickness of shotgun wad petal reduced pull to 3.4 lbs with a touch of take up.
Folding over the forward end of the shotgun wad shim to make it 2 thicknesses, reduced trigger pull to 2 lbs 14 ounces, still just a touch of take up.
Its worth playing around with different thicknesses of shim to see what you get when the screw is torqued into place.
Its back together now and functioning fine. I guess I'll spend that $95 + shipping on something else.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
The Rossi R92 has a much maligned, and deservedly so, rotating bolt safety. I find it to be in exactly the wrong position for in hand carry. Locked by a tiny ball and spring it's too easily wiped on and off accidentally. Fortunately, the R92 has a perfectly suitable Quarter Cock notch safety, just like the Winchesters we grew up with.
Rather than lay out almost $30 for a replacement hole filler or waste time machining a new hole filler, leaving a giant hole with two wings and markings and then potentially worrying over the engraved and filled markings on the bolt, (ad nauseum the derogatory safety commentary from all of your favorite complaint forums).....there is a reversible no cost fix.
Disassemble the safety from the bolt by driving out its retention pin, right to left, as you are facing the butt. (Left side of pin is knurled for retention and must not be driven thru and out the other side of the bolt.)
You then have these parts on your bench, if your ball and spring didn't fly off into the dustiest corner of the shop.
Rather than lay out almost $30 for a replacement hole filler or waste time machining a new hole filler, leaving a giant hole with two wings and markings and then potentially worrying over the engraved and filled markings on the bolt, (ad nauseum the derogatory safety commentary from all of your favorite complaint forums).....there is a reversible no cost fix.
Disassemble the safety from the bolt by driving out its retention pin, right to left, as you are facing the butt. (Left side of pin is knurled for retention and must not be driven thru and out the other side of the bolt.)
You then have these parts on your bench, if your ball and spring didn't fly off into the dustiest corner of the shop.
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Last edited by Sharps40 on 19 Jan 2024 08:39, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
Secure the ball and spring for later reuse should you wish to return to a bolt safety function. Or, write off the loss if one or both parts launched themselves into your own special messy place.
On the right is a 1/16" diameter section of steel drill rod and a bit of plastic, any malleable plastic will do.
The outer end of the pin is tapered to fit into the safety detente drilled into the bolt body. The pin is about .020" short of being able to fully lock the safety from turning. e.g. its not a snug fit.
Cut a small disc of that malleable plastic to fit into the hole of the safety drum. (Easily removed later with a small scribe or drill bit turned by hand.) In this case, a sliver is cut from the button side of a decorative phillips/hex head screw cap. A small disc/sliver cut from a used shotgun wad petal will work as well.
Insert the pin over the plastic disc, tapered end facing out.
Add a drop of super glue to the pin hole or not, e.g. optional step. (easily broken down with a soldering iron later should you wish to replace the spring and ball)
Align the safety in the fire position, tap lightly into place with a brass or nylon hammer. The plastic will compress lightly under the pin and the pin will lock solidly into the bolt.
Reinstall the safety cross pin, left to right, knurled end on the left side as you face the butt.
On the right is a 1/16" diameter section of steel drill rod and a bit of plastic, any malleable plastic will do.
The outer end of the pin is tapered to fit into the safety detente drilled into the bolt body. The pin is about .020" short of being able to fully lock the safety from turning. e.g. its not a snug fit.
Cut a small disc of that malleable plastic to fit into the hole of the safety drum. (Easily removed later with a small scribe or drill bit turned by hand.) In this case, a sliver is cut from the button side of a decorative phillips/hex head screw cap. A small disc/sliver cut from a used shotgun wad petal will work as well.
Insert the pin over the plastic disc, tapered end facing out.
Add a drop of super glue to the pin hole or not, e.g. optional step. (easily broken down with a soldering iron later should you wish to replace the spring and ball)
Align the safety in the fire position, tap lightly into place with a brass or nylon hammer. The plastic will compress lightly under the pin and the pin will lock solidly into the bolt.
Reinstall the safety cross pin, left to right, knurled end on the left side as you face the butt.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
If you didn't loose or have located your original spring and ball, package them in cellophane tape.
Remove the butt plate and drill a suitable shallow hole in the wood. Insert the taped bundle of parts into the hole. Reinstall the butt plate.
Remove the butt plate and drill a suitable shallow hole in the wood. Insert the taped bundle of parts into the hole. Reinstall the butt plate.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
The final assembly. Reversible but not without disassembly, your original parts won't get lost, no accidental on/off for the safety (the most common complaint i read on the web.). Looks factory original. Allows you to have that Winchester functionality you grew up with. No grinding, paint removal, rebluing or money spent.
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Re: Forums The Range Gun Smithing & Repairs Search… Tune the Rossi R92 at nearly zero cost, no cutting, grinding, sandi
Loading gate was very stiff. I took it out and ground a crescent moon shape covering nearly the length of the spring (Between gate spoon and screw lug) and thinning about 1/3 of the width of the spring. Polished the cut and the operating surfaces and now it's not a thumb buster and brass scraper. Easier to load and positive functionality.
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