Rossi Rifleman

Well I received the saddle ring I ordered from Beartooth Mercantile today. Looks good, nicely turned out, nice matt black colour.

BUT..!! when I came to remove the hammer screw from the rifle.. it wont budge..!!

Yes, I've removed the buttstock and cocked and pinned the hammer back. Yes, I'm using quality tools..

The damn screw appears to be stuck fast, tight as a drum and I'm lost for ideas as to how to solve this problem..

Any thoughts chaps??

OK.. problem solved. I got the screw out, boy it was hard work. Someone had put some Loctite on it and it was really well gummed up..!!

ManxTom wrote:OK.. problem solved. I got the screw out, boy it was hard work. Someone had put some Loctite on it and it was really well gummed up..!!

Loctite and duck tape the handyman's best friend

Make smoke,

Point application of heat.
Reminding me I need a new soldering iron.

Now I've got an even BIGGER problem..!!

I followed all the traditional take-down processes, removed stock screw, remove stock etc. The I got to the bit where you cock the hammer and ease the trigger back to enable a piece of wire to be pushed through the hole in the hammer spring shaft to hold it under tension. Did that, all is well.. so I thought. It seems I have used a piece of wire that wasn't thick enough and what I did use has been bent by the spring pressure and slid up inside the spring - thus releasing the tension on the spring..

Now I have to figure a way of squeezing that spring down far enough to insert a thicker piece of wire..!!

When I got up this morning I just knew it was going to be a crap day..!!

Any suggestions chaps..?? Please..!!

Ohio3Wheels wrote:

ManxTom wrote:OK.. problem solved. I got the screw out, boy it was hard work. Someone had put some Loctite on it and it was really well gummed up..!!

Loctite and duck tape the handyman's best friend

Make smoke,

You forgot to put the big hammer and a torch on the list.... That's USA torch you heat with, not British torch you see in the dark with

First things FIRST any time you are working with springs SAFETY GLASSES!

You are to some extent, just going to have to do it.
Prep your paper clip or other bit of wire that won't fold up inside the spring.
Lock the strut pivot into a vise with padded jaws.
Assuming you haven't already done it remove the under strength wire you tried to use at first.

Depending on the spring strength you MAY be able to do it by hand or you might have to use a tool.
IF you can skin the spring on by hand over hand, you'd have probably already done it so I'm assuming that's out.

At this point you are down to using not only your opposable thumb but tools. I'm going to suggest a set or two of needle nosed vise grips and or pliers, preferably with smooth jaws. Put the spring on the strut. Slide the pliers between a couple of the coils near the end of the strut and slide it down toward the head of the strut. REPEAT with a second set of pliers while mantaining the spring compression with the first set until you have it mostly compressed when you can slide the first set out. Repeat until the hole is exposed and insert new wire tool.

You could easily make a tool out of reasonably thin sheet metal or maybe even cutting into the side of a screwdriver to fit around the strut but you've probably already got the needle nose sitting there. You might even be able to use a small ignition wrench to fit around the strut, or a small plate wrench that's left over from assembling something else. It isn't rocket science but you want to avoid scoring or kinking the spring as much as possible.

Put the end of the shaft in a vise loosely. Release it a touch so you can push it further into the vise jaws. This allows you to compress the spring more. Tighten the vise, replace the wire with something stronger.

I use a table fork.