Rossi Rifleman

I take every one of my guns out and clean each one completely and then lube them every 6 months just for grins. It's a good way to inspect and maintain them and I like to go through each to 'fondle' it just for grins.

I started with my Rossi carbine and after a good cleaning and blowout with my air compressor, I greased the bolt slides and lever action with my can of Mag 1 Wheel Bearing Grease and oiled up the hammer and trigger. After that I cycled the action to spread the lube and then cleaned it up.

As my carbine is now a favorite with it's new bolt top peep sight, I was cycling the action to ensure a good spread of grease and it struck me how smooth and precise the action was and how smooth the trigger was after I'd finished. Then, after I finished my rifle, I noted that it too cycled and fired like a dream.

I got the grease years ago at Walmart and I use on all my guns. It's a red synthetic type and sells currently for only $3.99 for a 16 oz can so it's a bargain to boot. I found if I just cut a small hole in the middle of the plastic top and drop in a small acid brush I use to apply the grease, it keeps things from getting messy.

It works great on my leverguns and mil-types and keeps in place until I clean it off. Saves me money over the costs for special gun grease as this stuff flat works. It also is useful for greasing things around the home too. Just thought I'd share.

Interesting. I might buy a can and try brushing it on a mild steel sample and compare it to one treated with Corrosion-X left outside for a couple weeks. That’s what I tend to use.

It's a lubricant, not an anti-rust application.

COSteve wrote:It's a lubricant, not an anti-rust application.

BINGO!
While most lubricants can and usually do help prevent corrosion it isn't their primary application.
Anti corrosion products usually are rather poor at lubrication.

First run anti corrosion is usually in the form of treatments or coatings rather than lubricant. For example primer and paint, anodize or alodine followed by primer and possibly paint or primer and a moisture displacement lube or anti corrosion coat, parkerizing, cerakote.

For anti corrosion on the non-working surfaces of a firearm and to help it avoid picking up fingerprint oils and the like a good coat of paste wax seems to work pretty well.

Greasing sliding parts is a good idea, and is the right lube to use. Grease lasts longer before it oxidizes itself away, unlike an oil. Grease will also pick up micro bits of things like carbon & dirt and hold in suspension so it doesn't compromise the sliding metal parts.

That looks like a good lube. I had been using both Quaker State wheel grease, then Mobile 1 synt, red grease. Both worked well on levers and on rails for 1911. Lately I switched to Super Lube, in 3 oz. tube because it has teflon. Seems to work well, and being thinner consistency can be applied thinner - less waste.

Super Lube

Thanks for the recommendation, I've been wondering what I should use as of late.
I used to work for a chemical company that supplied the grease used in some space shuttle systems, it was VERY good grease. I remember a 55 gallon drum cost almost $100,000 dollars!; so naturally a friend of mine gave me a one pound can which I lost in a move; ....I wish I could find it!
My friend used to grease his Corvette with it and swore it rolled faster.LOL.
I couldn't tell you what it's composition was but it was incredible stuff! All I remember is that is was creamy white.

I'll second the Super Lube. I started using it with my mill and lathe and it just naturally went to the guns. I like it as it seems to have a wide temperature range.

Stay well, be safe, make smoke,

I've been using wheel bearing grease for triggers and sliding parts for years because it's free for me.

Most lubes are bettter than no lube.

In real cold temps, a heavy grease might cause a little drag on sliding parts, but it is not insurmountable.

For a day at range, followed by cleaning and relubing, I believe regular gun oil, mobil 1, ATF, even Breakfree will get things done. Grease works best for cleaning, lubing and putting back in gun safe - it will be still ready to go when you pull it out to go afield.

I've used Super Lube for grease for decades.

Here's one that might be new, and possibly controversial, to some. When you need oil, not grease: I'm an avid AR shooter. Have several of them and compete/train lots... bla-bla. ARs should never be lubed with grease, only oil...grease creates a gum that does bad things.

Rotella T-6 5w40 synthetic diesel oil. Cheap, works great. Designed for high temperatures/pressures... duh.. diesel.

Anyways if you think that's silly then pass. I'll continue.

John

OH - one more old tip.

Vietnam cleaning fluid secret recipe, works great.:

1 Part automatic transmission fluid
1 Part kerosene
1 part mineral spirits

Another PS - 1 part transmission fluid and 1 part acetone make an AMAZING break-free lubricant for those tough rusted on bolts... way better than anything you can buy. Get an eye dropper bottle for dispensing it.