Forearm Tip Fit Question

[Ranch Dog]

Michael;
With the band removed entirely from the carbine, will the screw thread into its hole far enough
for the head to seat properly?
Esentially this is checking, only for good thread mating, but may also show any warping of
the band which would disallow engagement.
And the results are? Holding my breath-------- - - - --_______________ZZZZZZZZZZZ

PepeR

Yes, that was the first thing I checked.

Another fellow and I worked on it for an hour and a half earlier today but both of us had other things to deal with. The barrel, despite the deeper slotting, is still critically interfering with the ability of the screw to seat. More filing to the barrel is going to be time consuming as it will be a stroke at a time and then fit testing. I don't have a clue how the guys in Brazil put this rifle together. I'm getting there.

[Pepe Ray]

Michael;
I wouldn't cut on the barrell, again.
Bbl. bands are a whole lot less expensive. The options are getting fewer.
Either relieve (file) the inside top of the band to get more room OR
stretch the band opening, possibly by carefully squeezing it in a vise.

Is it possible that all your trimming on the fore end has allowed it to suck up some humidity
and warp, thereby widening it? This would give you a false impression of what was needed to
make the new fit.
Have patience and good luck.
PepeR

[Ranch Dog]

I wouldn't cut on the barrell, again.
Bbl. bands are a whole lot less expensive. The options are getting fewer.
Either relieve (file) the inside top of the band to get more room OR
stretch the band opening, possibly by carefully squeezing it in a vise.

Is it possible that all your trimming on the fore end has allowed it to suck up some humidity
and warp, thereby widening it? This would give you a false impression of what was needed to
make the new fit.
Have patience and good luck.

Early on, I matched the upper radius of the band to the barrel and then started on the wood work for the fit. I baked the forearm in direct sunlight at 95°+ for 6 hours. I'm not discounting your suggesting, just establishing that they have been applied.

With that upper radius of the band a perfect fit to the barrel and the lower radius of the band a perfect fit to the stock, the only think left is relieving the barrel against the screw. Spent a just a few minutes today. One very light stroke at a time between the fit and it is now perfect. The screw can now be seated in the band with finger pressure.



The beast is back together with a perfect, no pressure match between barrel, barrel bands, and forearm. I will get some shooting in today if I can. I decided to go ahead and mount the Weaver Scout Scope on this rifle, looking for a bit more quality than the NcStar, and will have more on that in my Scout Scope thread as soon as I can.



What is real discouraging is the thought of the gyrations this firearm would had to have been placed through to get the screw in place. The forearm would have had to be clapped in a vice with the band free. The rifle would have had to be torqued considerably as the screw was forced between the barrel and tube and then been held under pressure to match the tip of the screw to the threaded hole in the band. I picture a pipe through the lever and across the side of the receiver to apply the necessary pressure. This was really bad and is why the center of the forearm was crushed. All they needed was a file.

[akuser47]

Glad to see you got it I will have to d this with mine.

[44-40 Willy]

Makes me glad that I've got a fore end cap rather than a barrel band. But then again, no telling what they did to get that cap on there. (I've never had to take it off)

[Ranch Dog]

Makes me glad that I've got a fore end cap rather than a barrel band. But then again, no telling what they did to get that cap on there. (I've never had to take it off)

My firearms spend a lot of time out in some nasty weather so I don't thing anything of removing the forearms and butt stock to cleanup behind them. My Puma 92 in 480 Ruger is next on the chopping block!

[Pepe Ray]

Congratulations Michael and well done.
There's no hurry now but when you have a spare " 'roun-2-it" try to figure how much meat you have between the screw and the grooves.
Just for 'S&G's.
PepeR

[akuser47]

What did you use to releive the barrel notch to seat the screw better. I need to do this on my rifle so I can tear her down and get them back together easier. I have some files I was thinking of using to do this or did you carefully dremel it which I would not want to do. Not a steady enough hand lol. Gladyou got it just want to learn your tools you used to do it thanks.

[Ranch Dog]

Congratulations Michael and well done.
There's no hurry now but when you have a spare " 'roun-2-it" try to figure how much meat you have between the screw and the grooves.
Just for 'S&G's.

I was interested in this from the start. I do not have sights in there appropriate dovetails but the rear sight is covered up with the scope base. The barrel diameter at the front sight dovetail is .676" in diameter and the bore of the rifle is .450" so the barrel wall is .113". The front sight dovetail cuts into that .054". The OD and ID are exactly the same at the forearm tip screw slot as is my cut at .054".

This is a pressure chart from QuickLoad, it is an estimate of pressure based on some very detailed settings I've entered in the program. It is identical to the information I've recorded in my pressure trace software but is easier to interpret being it is based on distance travel rather than time. At the chamber my 25.0-grain load of Lil'Gun is generating 35.0K PSI. As the bullet passes the rear sight dovetail the pressure is at 12.0K PSI, the forearm screw cut it is at 7.0K PSI, and at the front sight dovetail it is at 2.5K PSI. I feel none of this is worth worrying about.

What did you use to releive the barrel notch to seat the screw better. I need to do this on my rifle so I can tear her down and get them back together easier. I have some files I was thinking of using to do this or did you carefully dremel it which I would not want to do. Not a steady enough hand lol. Gladyou got it just want to learn your tools you used to do it thanks.

Nothing very facy, all hand powered.



I used the flat side of the half-round file to maintain the original angle of the cut while cutting it deeper. The radius on the curved side of the file continues to the flat side so it can cut a 90° against the opposite side. The slot was then slowly dressed with the other files as needed but that round file did a great job of maintaining a constant depth and move intersect of the angle wider. The flat files kept every thing even. None of these cost more that $3 each and I really can't tell you if I used them all other that the specific files described.

[Ranch Dog]

Out behind the house on my range, the rifle shot very well but I'm waiting on the Weaver Scout to show up so I didn't really hit it too hard. When I put the bore sighter on the barrel, it was amazing how far the point of aim was from the bore. That barrel had been under a tremendous amount of pressure. I've been feeling kind of poorly so with three shots touching at 50-yards, I called it a day.