Used Rossi .22LR/.410
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Used Rossi .22LR/.410
I've been looking for a rifle with youth possibilities for a bit now and I ran across this .22LR/.410 in a local gun shop/pawn shop.
The good news is that a mount and set of rings was included, but the bad news is that It's missing the rear sight. I tried the rear sight I took off of my Rossi Model 92 and it's the right length but the base is way larger for the dove tail. I also tried the rear sight off my Armi Sport Model 92 Takedown and it is way too loose. You just gotta love Rossi and their random dove tail sizes. I have several WInchester rear sights but they are too long.
So for now it gets a 4x32 Nikon Prostaff Rimfire that I had sitting on a shelf.
I won't be able to get to the range until Friday so we'll have to wait to see how it shoots, but it cleaned up nice and does not seem to have been used much at all. There is one ding in the butt stock, but nothing major.
I noted the length of pull is 12.5" an that's a bit long for the 7 year old in question so I'll probably cut it down an inch.
In terms of sights, it looks like it has the standard 4 hole Rossi spacing but I am wondering whether a Williams WGRS-T/C aperture sight for a Contender might work as the first two holes on the Rossi look like they are about the right distance apart. IIRC the hole centers on the WGRS-T/C are .312" and use a 6-48 thread.
Anyone know the Rossi hole spacing and thread pitch?
The good news is that a mount and set of rings was included, but the bad news is that It's missing the rear sight. I tried the rear sight I took off of my Rossi Model 92 and it's the right length but the base is way larger for the dove tail. I also tried the rear sight off my Armi Sport Model 92 Takedown and it is way too loose. You just gotta love Rossi and their random dove tail sizes. I have several WInchester rear sights but they are too long.
So for now it gets a 4x32 Nikon Prostaff Rimfire that I had sitting on a shelf.
I won't be able to get to the range until Friday so we'll have to wait to see how it shoots, but it cleaned up nice and does not seem to have been used much at all. There is one ding in the butt stock, but nothing major.
I noted the length of pull is 12.5" an that's a bit long for the 7 year old in question so I'll probably cut it down an inch.
In terms of sights, it looks like it has the standard 4 hole Rossi spacing but I am wondering whether a Williams WGRS-T/C aperture sight for a Contender might work as the first two holes on the Rossi look like they are about the right distance apart. IIRC the hole centers on the WGRS-T/C are .312" and use a 6-48 thread.
Anyone know the Rossi hole spacing and thread pitch?
Last edited by Model 52 on 12 Aug 2013 18:22, edited 1 time in total.
- akuser47
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Re: Used Rossi .22LR/.410
Small update...
I found some 6-48 plug screws in the parts box and they fit just fine - so the holes are tapped 6-48, which is pretty standard.
WIth two of the screws I measured the distance edge to edge for all the holes and subtracted the width of one plug screw. That should give the C to C distance (unless I mis-remember my geometry really badly).
The distance between holes 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 is .296".
Holes 1 and 3 are 1.138" C to C.
Holes 1 and 4 are 1.438" C to C.
Holes 2 and 3 are .827" C to C
Holes 2 and 4 are 1.138" C to C
---
The hole spacing on the Williams WGRS-T/C is .312, so it's a difference of .016", or about 1/64" of an inch. I suspect I can mill out the end of the hole under the aperture by .016" to get the screws to fit, and not have it look bad at all.
Now the major question is front sight height...
I found some 6-48 plug screws in the parts box and they fit just fine - so the holes are tapped 6-48, which is pretty standard.
WIth two of the screws I measured the distance edge to edge for all the holes and subtracted the width of one plug screw. That should give the C to C distance (unless I mis-remember my geometry really badly).
The distance between holes 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 is .296".
Holes 1 and 3 are 1.138" C to C.
Holes 1 and 4 are 1.438" C to C.
Holes 2 and 3 are .827" C to C
Holes 2 and 4 are 1.138" C to C
---
The hole spacing on the Williams WGRS-T/C is .312, so it's a difference of .016", or about 1/64" of an inch. I suspect I can mill out the end of the hole under the aperture by .016" to get the screws to fit, and not have it look bad at all.
Now the major question is front sight height...
- Ranch Dog
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Re: Used Rossi .22LR/.410
Hahh... another image captured for the header! I'm on a crusade!
Very nice looking rifle with nice looking wood. According to Skinner, the spacing is the same as the Contender.
I have the site pictured above that I bought for my Wizard but the barrel on that rifle has a different contour so the sight did not fit. It has been sitting around for a year. If you want it, PM me your USPS shipping address and you can have it.
Very nice looking rifle with nice looking wood. According to Skinner, the spacing is the same as the Contender.
I have the site pictured above that I bought for my Wizard but the barrel on that rifle has a different contour so the sight did not fit. It has been sitting around for a year. If you want it, PM me your USPS shipping address and you can have it.
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Michael
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Re: Used Rossi .22LR/.410
I ordered the Williams yesterday as I suspect the manufacturing tolerances are loose enough that .016" won't be an issue. However if it does not work out I'll take you up on the Skinner.
And feel free to use the picture as a header.
And feel free to use the picture as a header.
- Ranch Dog
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Re: Used Rossi .22LR/.410
The sight arrived and I took it shooting yesterday. Despite the difference in nominal hole spacing,the holes are so large in the Williams sight base that the difference doesn't matter.
The bad news is that it sits high enough that you have to move the sight all the way back until it contacts the breech face to establish a zero at 50 yards, even with the front sight adjusted as high as it will go.
The good news is that the front sight blade moves up and down and is held in place with a set screw. I need to fabricate a new front sight blade with a piece of steel ground to the right dimensions to fit the slot, just a bit longer.
Now, the additional bad news is that accuracy is a bit sporadic. I suspect the issue is that the forearm seems be compressed between the post on the barrel and the front of the action. I'm deciding whether to shorten it from the rear, or just remove some wood from the rear edge of the hole.
Edit:
Ok...I took the material off the front of the piece that's at the rear of the fore end (working around the alignment pin) until I could put the for end back on with a nice no interference fit. Hopefully that will resolve the poor accuracy issue.
I also found a piece of scrap 1/8" by 1" steel and ground a section down to the width of the blade (.097) then cut a new blade out of it, long enough to rest against the barrel and give me another .1" of sight height above the ramp. If it's shooting too low at 50 yards with the sight centered on the first large hash mark on the sight, I'll file it from the bottom to regulate it. That should keep things as low as possible but still provide adjustment for SV ammo, shorter 25 yard shooting, etc.
The bad news is that it sits high enough that you have to move the sight all the way back until it contacts the breech face to establish a zero at 50 yards, even with the front sight adjusted as high as it will go.
The good news is that the front sight blade moves up and down and is held in place with a set screw. I need to fabricate a new front sight blade with a piece of steel ground to the right dimensions to fit the slot, just a bit longer.
Now, the additional bad news is that accuracy is a bit sporadic. I suspect the issue is that the forearm seems be compressed between the post on the barrel and the front of the action. I'm deciding whether to shorten it from the rear, or just remove some wood from the rear edge of the hole.
Edit:
Ok...I took the material off the front of the piece that's at the rear of the fore end (working around the alignment pin) until I could put the for end back on with a nice no interference fit. Hopefully that will resolve the poor accuracy issue.
I also found a piece of scrap 1/8" by 1" steel and ground a section down to the width of the blade (.097) then cut a new blade out of it, long enough to rest against the barrel and give me another .1" of sight height above the ramp. If it's shooting too low at 50 yards with the sight centered on the first large hash mark on the sight, I'll file it from the bottom to regulate it. That should keep things as low as possible but still provide adjustment for SV ammo, shorter 25 yard shooting, etc.
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Re: Used Rossi .22LR/.410
Update and range report.
The taller front sight post I fabricated is about right, as it's in the middle of the adjustment range with a 50 yard zero:
Relieving the base of the forearm seems to have done the trick in terms of the vertical stringing and general patterns rather than groups it was demonstrating previously. It's not a tack driver, but it's not bad for a short carbine at 50 yards with field grade sights and Win Xpert ammo.
The "flier" out at 4:30 was the first shot of the group, prior to adjusting the windage. The other nine are the rest of the post adjustment group. There is some vertical stringing but that's probably an artifact of using a center hold on the target. Since it was raining I only posted one target and did the elevation adjustment and the rest of the shooting on steel plates.
All in all, it's a fun little gun.
The taller front sight post I fabricated is about right, as it's in the middle of the adjustment range with a 50 yard zero:
Relieving the base of the forearm seems to have done the trick in terms of the vertical stringing and general patterns rather than groups it was demonstrating previously. It's not a tack driver, but it's not bad for a short carbine at 50 yards with field grade sights and Win Xpert ammo.
The "flier" out at 4:30 was the first shot of the group, prior to adjusting the windage. The other nine are the rest of the post adjustment group. There is some vertical stringing but that's probably an artifact of using a center hold on the target. Since it was raining I only posted one target and did the elevation adjustment and the rest of the shooting on steel plates.
All in all, it's a fun little gun.
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