Lee's Gunsmithing M92 Spring Kit

[Maj Dad]

I must have missed something in the tutorials on replacing the factory ejector spring with Lee's replacement (Brownell's http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/re ... =100000512 ). I took the action totally down, cleaned it with carb cleaner, thouroughly dried it, then sprayed with Tri-Flow and let it dry a bit before wiping down. I've read the instructions here, and watched the Youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Gx7-k8W2eA ) till I had memorized it, but getting the spring and collar on was an absolute nightmare. The ejector looks like it was made in Afghanistan by near-sighted tribesmen, and the shaft is rough as a cob, making assembly horrific. Did I miss something or is this the norm? And when I ejected the dummy round, it seemed like it flew out as vigorously as the factory setup. Other than that, disassembly/reassembly was straightforward after I finally figured out the trigger pin had moved out just enough to stop the lower tang from re-seating (heart attack and stroke narrowly averted ) I will add that I did not replace the mainspring or the lever pin spring after reading several comments noting the Lee's mainspring had caused light strikes and the Lee's lever spring was not quite strong enough to hold when bumped. I polished the lever pin along with every other reciprocating surface I could access with files and Arkansas stones, and the action is nice and smooth now (the lever ends that engage the bolt looked like a rough casting that had been assembled as-cast). I lubed with GI CLP and don't plan on another tear-down for at least six months after the angst I put myself through on this one...
Oy, vey!

[joec]

I used the whole gunslinger spring set in my 45 Colt R92 which is what you have shown with the link. I have been very pleased with them. I had them already when I got the gun and just used them in place of the springs I got with the Steve Gunz kit. I did it about 3 years ago now and still going strong and spent brass lands at my feet and not 8' behind me.

[ironhead7544]

The trick to putting the longer ejector springs in is to use the projection at the bottom of the bolt to hold the spring. The collar sits on top of the projection. Then put a dummy round in to hold everything in place. Put the bolt in the receiver just past the bullet. Look into the receiver and you can see where the lever has to go. Put the lever in and push the bolt forward until the holes line up and insert the pin. Took me a while to figure this out and a lot of people had the some problem.

I recommend getting the stevesgunz video. If you rework the trigger spring and shorten the hammer spring by 2 coils, you will get about a 3 lb pull. With a reworked trigger spring and a 19 lb Wolf Ruger Blackhawk mainspring if will be around 2 lb or a little more.

[Maj Dad]

use the projection at the bottom of the bolt to hold the spring. The collar sits on top of the projection.

Like I said, I had read the instructions and watched the video (and had it on the bench) and was well versed in what to do, but doing it was frustrating, to say the least. And I am still not sure the spring is doing anything different from the factory - I guess when I go to the range I will find out if the empties fall at my feet, but in the shop they fly over my right shoulder.

I replace most of my pistol and revolver trigger return springs with Wolff reduced power, but I have removed the reduced power mainsprings and replaced the factory springs because of light strikes and FTFs (which some noted with the Lee mainspring). I do have some rifles that I shoot from the bench that I like the trigger to be around 2 lbs or so, but for a rifle that I carry afield I prefer a heavier trigger pull - I have been surprised a couple of times and don't like it. I also very gingerly touched the trigger/sear and hammer notch with hard Arkansas stones and it breaks nicely for a lever action, around 3-4 lbs; I would not want it to be any lighter. All in all, I guess I am o.k. with it, but as of right now, it was worth the time and effort because I smoothed up all the moving surfaces and deburred it. I will shoot it before I do anything else, and then consider finishing the wood on it. I am debating removing the forend vs taping the metal and finishing it as it lies, using Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish on Rimfire Central (pretty amazing - excellent read and awesome results: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... p?t=331108 ).
Time's a-wastin'!!

Cheers, and thanks for the replies,
George J.

[The Only Sarge]

Yes this is my first post here. Long time lurker I think is what the kids say

I reduce the power of the ejector spring by sanding the outside diameter of the spring (factory).

Does the same thing as the kit spring.

[Ninety Caliber]

I left mine stock. Cut one coil off the carrier friction stud spring and one off the lever lock spring and about three cartridge lengths off the mag spring ......now had about a thousand rounds through it .... It's awesome!