The Rossi Model R92, a lightweight carbine for Cowboy Action, hunting, or plinking! Includes Rossi manufactured Interarms, Navy Arms, and Puma trade names.
Will though I would disassemble my new 92 to clean it and replace a few springs. So I got it almost apart but the lower tang will not move it is like the bolt is still in it but it's not fills like it is welded in place NO movement at all.
So I though I would just replace the ejector spring and put it back together, NO can't do that with the bolt still in place.
So now I can't get it apart or put it back together. Here is 3 pics of it. Any help would be very much appreciated
This rifle has never be fired.
The only thing I can think of is that you should still have the lever in place. The lower tang is one of the first things you remove after the stock is pulled out.
This is what I do:
1. Remove Tang Screw and pull stock off (You already did this)
2. Remove Magazine Screw, Cap, Spring and Follower (You already did this)
3. Insert paper clip into Hammer Strut (You already did this)
4. Remove Hammer/Lower Tang screw (You already did this)
5. While squeezing the Trigger and with the Lever slightly lowered, remove the Lower Tang by pulling it to the rear
(This can be difficult, some suggest you grab the lug on the lower tang that the main spring is resting on (far side from the trigger), and give the pliers a few raps with a small hammer but I don't recommend you do this before you put the lever and its associated parts back in. When you have it operating normally, try it again in the correct sequence)
6. Close Bolt (raise lever) and remove Hammer.
7. Remove Bolt Pin Stop Screw.
8. Drive pin out from right side of gun.
9. Lower Lever and pull Lever/Lug assembly.
10. Slide out Bolt/Bushing/Spring/Ejector assembly.
Please note that the bolt will not slide out until the bolt pin is driven out (step 8). I hope you have a small drift punch.
I use a brass punch. Put the punch up in the trigger area and drive the tang out. Be careful where you put the punch so it contacts the lower tang properly. The parts vary a bit on the M92 I have noticed. Had one tight one and one real loose lower tang. The loose tang was a bit difficult to get back together as you had to hold pressure on the tang to keep the trigger/hammer hole lined up and also pull the trigger and put pressure on the hammer spring at the same time. Better a tighter one that stays in place.
Clinebo wrote:Don't you have to take those screws out first? You have 2 on the left side and 2 on the right still in place.
Those screws are fine. The relate to the cartridge guides, carrier and loading door.
ironhead7544 wrote:I use a brass punch. Put the punch up in the trigger area and drive the tang out. Be careful where you put the punch so it contacts the lower tang properly. The parts vary a bit on the M92 I have noticed. Had one tight one and one real loose lower tang. The loose tang was a bit difficult to get back together as you had to hold pressure on the tang to keep the trigger/hammer hole lined up and also pull the trigger and put pressure on the hammer spring at the same time. Better a tighter one that stays in place.
I agree with ironheads recommendations here. A couple of my R92's lower tangs were tough to get out which means they will be tough to get back in. You can help this by cleaning up the "tongue and groove" fit and using grease on the match points when it is time to move it back in place. I used a premium moly type grease that I use on my tractor.
Thank you guys that was very good info I really appreciate your help. I though I was doing it in the right sequence, I do have all the tools I need to do this job so I will try again.
I got it all back and working, so I have never shot this 92 yet so I took it too the range today just for a function test. I used some of my reloads 158 jhp with 13.5gr. 2400 158 jsp 7gr. Unique and some 38spl, 130 jrn and the gun worked flawlessly.
At this point I'm not sure I need to change any spring, well I think I might try a different mag spring and flower ss.
But one day soon I will take it apart just because I like taking thing apart to see how it all works. Thanks again.
I prefer the original springs.
If you exercise due diligence and get rid of the dirt, polish off the metal burrs and lubricate with a good quality light machine oil the 92s are plenty slick without changing a single thing.
The only thing I used from the SG kit is the stainless steel magazine follower.
My 92s are as slick and accurate as my Pedersoli 86/71 and my Winchester 94TE which are 4X the money of a Rossi 92.
The only difference between the Chevys and the Cadillacs was that a little elbow grease was needed to smooth out the Rossis.
Other than walnut vs jungle mystery wood the end product is the same.
