Just received my stainless .45 92 from Buds. What next

[44-40 Willy]

I'm sure my time is coming when I get burned by Rossi, but so far that hasn't been the case.

Same here. That's why I believe in giving the gun a chance before rebuilding it. I've never been much on fixing what aint broke.

[pricedo]

Stripping a gun apart, cleaning the cosmoline, dirt, metal grindings, rust out of the receiver housing & magazine tube, cleaning & deburring action components & lubricating before reassembly is hardly rebuilding a gun.
It is preventative maintenance in that it prevents/fixes most of the function & cycling problems that commonly occur with the 92s.
Other than my thorough pre-purchase inspect & check I don't concern myself further with cycling the action or shooting until the strip/clean/deburr/lube regimen is done.
The above is my own methodology.
Once you see the difference between before and after the new gun tune-up it will probably become part of your standard practice as it has become part of mine for dealing with new Rossi 92s.
No doubt others will do as they see fit with their new guns & that is their choice.

[Wills Point Pete]

Clean and lube the innards, put it back together and then cycle the action about five hundred times. Then shoot a hundred or so rounds, take it down and clean it up, then clean off any burrs. The cycling and the shooting will show you what needs to be sanded or stoned. This is when you can put the metal follower in and the spring kit if you wish. The plastic follower will last for a while, you have plenty of time for all this.

[pricedo]

Then shoot a hundred or so rounds, take it down and clean it up, then clean off any burrs.

After 100 rounds with the 335 grain @ 1950 fps hunting loads I use in my 92/454 most of the burrs would likely be on my right shoulders ball joint.

[Arktikos]

Then shoot a hundred or so rounds, take it down and clean it up, then clean off any burrs.

After 100 rounds with the 335 grain @ 1950 fps hunting loads I use in my 92/454 most of the burrs would likely be on my right shoulders ball joint.

Those are called spurs and would be for your orthopedic surgeon to remove! I know all about them...

[lv2tinker]

Clean it, Lube it, Shoot it.
In that order.

[mr surveyor]

Clean it, Lube it, Shoot it.
In that order.

rinse and repeat

[pricedo]

I have one of those portable jewelers work stations where the magnifying lens is mounted on a frame so my hands are free to work.
If I have a new gun stripped down on the bench and the parts cleansed of oil & dirt and I spot conspicuous metal burrs when I do my magnifying glass inspection under a strong light they're coming off then & there.
During a hard season hunt sometimes in inclement weather dirt & moisture are going to get into that action........it's unavoidable.
Sand & high silica dirt mixes with the oil in the receiver to become a gun wearing grinding compound that needs to be purged periodically with clean oil.
I reinspect parts in detail under magnification & fix outstanding problems when I do my annual post hunting season strip, clean & lube routine on my guns.

[k80clay]

I've put 2 gunslinger spring kits in my two R92's. The ejector spring is a pain, but other than that, I highly recommend the kit.

I also put some accelerated wear / polishing on it with flitz. Remove stock. Take some of the blue flitz paste (the stuff in the tooth paste tube, not the bottle) and smear some all in the action. Sides of the bolt, inside rails, hammer, lever/ locking bolts, etc. Lever the action 30-40 times. Wipe off, re-apply, 30-40 times. Repeat about 3 or 4 times. After the 4th time, take some brake cleaner and hose the action out. Don't be stingy with a $3 can of brake cleaner - blow up the entire can to get all the flitz out. Spray - cycle - spray - cycle until it's gone. Dry and re-oil. The flitz will polish the metal to metal contacts without having to really stone the internals. Bonus is knowing the flitz will not remove too much metal like stoning can. That and the kit works wonders.

[pricedo]

I have a policy of not removing/altering any more steel or wood than is necessary to get the guns to where they need to be to do the jobs I purchased them for.
My minimally intrusive strip/clean/inspect/deburr-polish/lube regimen has resulted in dead-on accurate 92s I can cycle with my baby finger in the finger lever.
I can't see how it could get much better than that.
What I'm doing now is working great and I rarely mess with a system that is working great.
The "smoothing compound" methodology was suggested to me years ago as a method of loosening stiff Amadeo Rossi 92 actions.
Putting what is essentially grinding compound in the receiver and cycling the action a number of times seems like indiscriminate removal of metal and intentional premature wearing of parts to me but what do I know?
I chose to remove and smooth the conspicuous burrs and leave the rest of the metal alone.
It's gotten me the results I wanted.