Carrier Stop Pin?
Carrier Stop Pin?
I have recently had some feeding problems with my 16" .357 carbine. At first, I thought my problem was C.O.L. related with some 158 gr RNFP bullets. However, I have had some issues with the 158 gr JSP load that has been feeding fine. I checked, and the length of these JSP's has not changed. What I did notice today is that the carrier stop pin ( no. 42 on the attached) was sticking up. I can push it back in easily, but when I work the lever, the pin works it's way back out. Has anyone else had this problem? It looks like the carrier pin and spring might hold this in place, but I haven't pulled it apart yet. Any advice?
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Re: Carrier Stop Pin?
The carrier stop pin holds #40 and #41 in place, not the other way around. It should be a fairly snug friction fit. And yes, sticking up is likely to cause feeding issues.
I hate to say this.... but the fix may be complex, but easy. Complex in that is may require removal of the carrier, a pretty much major disassembly. Easy in that the pin can be upset on one end in a vice (or with vice grips), and reinserted. The "upset" portion will provide the needed friction.
Dunno if that makes sense. And the drawing you provided shows the screws going into the wrong holes!
I hate to say this.... but the fix may be complex, but easy. Complex in that is may require removal of the carrier, a pretty much major disassembly. Easy in that the pin can be upset on one end in a vice (or with vice grips), and reinserted. The "upset" portion will provide the needed friction.
Dunno if that makes sense. And the drawing you provided shows the screws going into the wrong holes!
Re: Carrier Stop Pin?
Reese-Mo -
I just finished taking it apart and staking the pin. There is a flat area on the back of the carrier that fits over the corner of my vise anvil. I used a small pointed center punch and punched the end of the pin. Disassembly is easy - it's putting it back together that's tricky. I must have tried 30 times to get the lever back in before I hit the sweet spot. Getting the lower tang/hammer screw lined up was a pain, too. I got it back together and cycled the action vigorously several times, and the pin has not moved. Hopefully it stays put.
I just finished taking it apart and staking the pin. There is a flat area on the back of the carrier that fits over the corner of my vise anvil. I used a small pointed center punch and punched the end of the pin. Disassembly is easy - it's putting it back together that's tricky. I must have tried 30 times to get the lever back in before I hit the sweet spot. Getting the lower tang/hammer screw lined up was a pain, too. I got it back together and cycled the action vigorously several times, and the pin has not moved. Hopefully it stays put.
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Re: Carrier Stop Pin?
It does look like the diagram could be a lot clearer if the connecting lines went to the right parts and holes. I see at least 3 mistakes there.
- jstanfield103
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Re: Carrier Stop Pin?
I'm pretty new to the Winchester design. But I thought that pin was held in by the slot that it fits into the receiver.
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Re: Carrier Stop Pin?
Pin No 40 is spring loaded by 41 to ride against the LHS of the receiver which is grooved along the travel path with a stop notch/groove perpendicular to the travel groove at the top (and maybe bottom) that limits travel. No 40 is essentially a detent pin.
Retaining pin No 42 prevents 40 and 41 from shooting out of the lifter No 39 before it is installed in the receiver or when it is being removed from the gun. I'm guessing 40 is notched to allow 40 to retain while it is still able to move against the spring pressure somewhat. Since 42 is a solid pin it needs to be an interference fit to stay in place in the hole. There's about a half dozen to a dozen ways to make that work.
Retaining pin No 42 prevents 40 and 41 from shooting out of the lifter No 39 before it is installed in the receiver or when it is being removed from the gun. I'm guessing 40 is notched to allow 40 to retain while it is still able to move against the spring pressure somewhat. Since 42 is a solid pin it needs to be an interference fit to stay in place in the hole. There's about a half dozen to a dozen ways to make that work.