Refinish stock questions
- GasGuzzler
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Re: Refinish stock questions
I would not put color on it unless I wanted a fairly drastic change.
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Re: Refinish stock questions
You can try stain. I can never get the wood on any of my Rossi's to accept any stain. The Tru Oil will darken it a little.Fran49829 wrote:Do I need to put stain on it before tru oil and if so what kind and color. I don't think the original finish penetrated the wood
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Re: Refinish stock questions
I went looking for some rubbing alcohol a couple three weeks ago and found it sold out.GasGuzzler wrote:I'll second that. I would start with rubbing alcohol.Archer wrote:There have been reports that the stain on the Rossi can be washed off with tap water.
Might be back in stock but since I live in SoCal Loco I wouldn't bet the clowns around here might still be buying it faster than it comes into stock.
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Re: Refinish stock questions
I stripped mine with Purple Power, then sanded it smooth and clean and hit it with Watco Medium Walnut Danish Oil, then topped it with a 50/50 BLO/turpentine mix.
I think that Rossi wood is Tabubeia, it's very dense and hard. Doesn't soak stuff in very well.
I think that Rossi wood is Tabubeia, it's very dense and hard. Doesn't soak stuff in very well.
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Re: Refinish stock questions
I personally believe dyes work better than stain. They are more expensive, but worth it. You can use aniline dyes made specifically for wood. I find Fiebing's leather dyes (available from Tandy) work exceptionally well. Neither hides figure as stain often does.
The stock in the photo was dyed with Fiebing's Dark Brown + Oxblood in a 5:1 ratio.
(BTW, my rifle is the the one without a sling. I don't know why it was combined with rondog's.)
The stock in the photo was dyed with Fiebing's Dark Brown + Oxblood in a 5:1 ratio.
(BTW, my rifle is the the one without a sling. I don't know why it was combined with rondog's.)
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- Arroyoshark
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Re: Refinish stock questions
That finish looks beautiful on your lever !
Good work on blending dyes.
I saw your lever in an earlier posting on finishes and admired the work. You also have posted that you have tweaked your lever quite a bit, as it is your hobby. Most, if not all, lever carbines have some wood projecting in front of the rear barrel band. I note yours does not, so am guessing you must have trimmed it back. I wondered why you did that, but it does look closer to a Winchester "short rifle" aesthetic.
Good work on blending dyes.
I saw your lever in an earlier posting on finishes and admired the work. You also have posted that you have tweaked your lever quite a bit, as it is your hobby. Most, if not all, lever carbines have some wood projecting in front of the rear barrel band. I note yours does not, so am guessing you must have trimmed it back. I wondered why you did that, but it does look closer to a Winchester "short rifle" aesthetic.
When sitting down to clean a gun, the first step is to load another gun - Elmer Keith
Re: Refinish stock questions
Did you use a sealer over the stain and if so what?dlidster wrote:I personally believe dyes work better than stain. They are more expensive, but worth it. You can use aniline dyes made specifically for wood. I find Fiebing's leather dyes (available from Tandy) work exceptionally well. Neither hides figure as stain often does.
The stock in the photo was dyed with Fiebing's Dark Brown + Oxblood in a 5:1 ratio.
(BTW, my rifle is the the one without a sling. I don't know why it was combined with rondog's.)
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Re: Refinish stock questions
The original fore end was badly misshapen beyond the band, so I cut it flush. (I had done the same deliberately on my Marlin 336 more than 50 years ago.) I also planed the wood down on both the fore end and stock so it would be flush with the receiver. My original stock was quite "proud" adjacent to the metal and looked tacky.Arroyoshark wrote:. . . wood projecting in front of the rear barrel band. I note yours does not, so am guessing you must have trimmed it back. I wondered why you did that . . .