I only weighed a few (157.1-157.4 still warm) but didn't mic them. I have a Lee sizer in .358. Hope the rifle likes them as much as the Blackhawk does. I've read some of these R92s like .359.
I bought the last of the Johnsnons liquid wax at my Home Depot recently and have made one batch of Ben's. I used it to "seal" some bullets I relubed after they were covered in powder from pulling them. That was back when I learned to make lube.
I have not tried the TL mold yet.
I figured the frosty ones were OK but I wanted to get it right the first try. After the lead and mold were hot I figured at pot setting and pace that worked well.
Today Was the Day
- GasGuzzler
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Today Was the Day
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I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
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- 1000 Shots
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Re: Today Was the Day
You done good!
Make smoke,
Make smoke,
Curt... makin' smoke and raising my carbon foot print one cartridge at a time
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Re: Today Was the Day
You are already off to a good start. First two things to add are a thermometer and a flat top hot plate:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_in ... ucts_id=30
The lead thermometer will help you know just how hot your alloy like to be cast at and when you should dial it down before you start casting frosty bullets.
The hot plate with the solid flat top works best over the coil model. This is soooo much better at evenly warming the mold blocks than trying to prop them over the pot.
A nice to have but not critical option is the lube pen NOE is now carrying:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_in ... ts_id=2376
What is critical is that you keep your mold lubed so you don't get galling and wear on the parts. This can be done with a cotton swab and some lube but the pen just makes it easier. I can grab the pen with the gloves and a few swipes of the lubed felt tip and I'm back to casting in less than a minute.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_in ... ucts_id=30
The lead thermometer will help you know just how hot your alloy like to be cast at and when you should dial it down before you start casting frosty bullets.
The hot plate with the solid flat top works best over the coil model. This is soooo much better at evenly warming the mold blocks than trying to prop them over the pot.
A nice to have but not critical option is the lube pen NOE is now carrying:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_in ... ts_id=2376
What is critical is that you keep your mold lubed so you don't get galling and wear on the parts. This can be done with a cotton swab and some lube but the pen just makes it easier. I can grab the pen with the gloves and a few swipes of the lubed felt tip and I'm back to casting in less than a minute.
- GasGuzzler
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Re: Today Was the Day
Aluminum mold is already scored where the sprue plate pivots. Sprue plate loosened up after it cooled.
I used a steel plate on top of my coiled element topped with a steel box to balance the mold while I set it down to fiddle.
Any suggestion is welcome.
I used a steel plate on top of my coiled element topped with a steel box to balance the mold while I set it down to fiddle.
Any suggestion is welcome.
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I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
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Re: Today Was the Day
Ohio3, I'm with you on the frosted bullets. It don't bother me at all if they get frosted. And like you say, lube sticks better to the "frosting". But I powder coat so now the powder paint, sticks better, and hides the frosting so that nobody knows they were frosty in the first place
GG, if you'll add about 4 ozs of lead free solder (tin) to a 10 lb batch. You will be surprised at how well the slugs will fill out. All the edges and corners will be as sharp as the they are in the cavities.
GG, if you'll add about 4 ozs of lead free solder (tin) to a 10 lb batch. You will be surprised at how well the slugs will fill out. All the edges and corners will be as sharp as the they are in the cavities.
Don Huff
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
to bad those that know it all, cant do it all!
16" SS 92 357
20" BL 92 357
20" SS 92 44
20" BL 92 44
20" Bl 92 45C
20" Bl 92 454
SS Rio Grande 30-30
Bl Rio Grande 45-70
- GasGuzzler
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Re: Today Was the Day
That mold has a gradual taper at the crimp groove. All the other edges are fairly sharp. I'm pretty happy with the results of fours hours of learning. I do have some gifted solder as well as some gifted straight tin Lyman ingots.
I'm horse trading to get components to build a PID controller. I'm skipping the $45 thermometer I didn't have to already make good bullets.
I'm horse trading to get components to build a PID controller. I'm skipping the $45 thermometer I didn't have to already make good bullets.
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I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.
I've always been crazy but it's kept me from going insane.