Receiver sight location

[catalekid]

I would like to drill and tap my 92 for a receiver sight while I have it apart.

Can anybody post pics or a link to pics showing the best location for the mounting holes? My inclination is to place the sight as far to the rear as possible but I am not sure.

Thanks if you can help.

[Missionary]

Greetings
An easy option is to go to Gunbroker and look at Winchester 1894 44 Mag . But your basic idea is to thr rear of the receiver.
Only 92 (vintage 1908 or so) I have here does not have holes in the side.
Mike in Peru

[0369]

I drilled mine in the lug ways to make sure I didn't hit anything in the receiver. This put my Williams FP right over the bolt safety location.

http://www.rossi-rifleman.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=848

[grandad]

G,day.
my 92 came from factory with a MARBLES tang sight fitted, as far back on tang as you
could get. really needs to be far back if you are also using backsight as when tang sight is folded down
you still need room to grip stock.one of my posts has a photo.
Grandad

[Pepe Ray]

There is surprising flexability in choosing a position.
In order to achieve the utmost performance for a "Ghost Ring" receiver sight, I prefer to mount it as far to the rear as possible.
Before marking the hole location, do trial and error fittings by makeing temporary attachments with tape or rubber cement. Be sure to check that the sight is set in it's "Prime" condition. Then mark with ONE %@*&$ punch.
On one of my saddle ring carbines I had the sight mounted on the starboard (right) side. Many guys don't notice the difference.
Pepe Ray

[Model 52]

I much prefer a Marbles standard tang sight to a receiver mounted sight. The aperture is closer to the eye and much more effective due to the improved depth of field that occurs (making it easier to get sharp focus on the front sight with less blurring of the target). and the improved alignment potential in the rear aperture and the longer sight radius.

Plus, a Marbles tang sight is quickly and easily finger adjusted for windage and elevation and the adjustments are repeatable in .4 MOA increments, where the compact Williams models need a screw driver and rely of hash marks on the sight so adjustment is slower, with more guess work and require very close attention to detail to return to your original zero.

On the Marbles tang sight base, the rear screw is the stock screw, so that position is fixed. The rear hole in the base however is oval shaped so it can be moved for and aft a bit.

My advice however is to drill the front hole in the tang to leave the sight as far forward as possible.

Below I have a Rossi 92 carbine (top) and an Armi Sport 92 takedown rifle (bottom). You'll note two things:

1) The Rossi carbine has a longer tang than the Armi Sport rifle, and

2) the position of the tang sights is slightly different.

[

The Rossi was not drilled and tapped from the factory, and I placed the sight as far forward on the tang as possible, to make as much clearance for the thumb as possible and to increase the range of elevation adjustment as much as possible. You'll note the rear screw is all the way to the back of the rear hole in the base. This hole spacing also works with the Lyman number 2 sight and I used it on all of my 94s and 92s for that reason. It's nice to have other sight options with just a single D&T'd hole.

The Armi Sport was D&T'd from the factory and you'll note the rear screw is closer to the center of the rear hole.

Below is the bolt clearance that results with the longer tang and higher sight placement on the Rossi with the lever fully extended:



Here is the Armi Sport with the same full lever extension:



That illustrates the interplay of tang length and sight placement. If the Armi Sport sight were mounted as far forward on the shorter tang of the Armi Sport, the clearance between sight and bolt would potentially be an issue, so check for this clearance before you drill and tap the tang. In this case, there still would have been clearance, but it would have been close.