Rossi Rifleman

I only rented the Go and No-Go. I don't know if they had the field. I still have a few days before I have to send them back, so I'll try it without the extractor and ejector. Not sure if I'll be able to tell if it closes or not without the lever locking in place. Thanks again for all the information. I can't believe how much I've learned. And still have a long way to go.

Try to close the bolt both without the lever and put the lever and the locking bolts in place and gentle it closed if you can, just don't put a lot of force behind the lever. It should close on the go gauge under essentially no pressure and the no go shouldn't close with very light pressure. The idea behind the go/no-go gauges is that it is a safe range of tolerance build up for a new rifle build.

It isn't automatically unsafe if it doesn't land right in the range but it is an indication that the tolerances aren't tight. It is possible, if unlikely, that a gun can pass the headspace check and on the first trip out shooting that it might wear in enough that it could chamber a no-go gauge. If you note the write up at the link, even if it closes on a field gauge it may still be 'safe'. Dealing with certain guns it can be a bit sloppier than with others. .303 Enfields for example have a tendency toward excess headspace but they seem to continue to function even so.

I'll try it again using the method you described. I also still have the bolt carrier they sent to me - got 90 days to return it. Maybe I'll test with that also just to see if there is a difference. I've been thinking so much about headspace lately that I kind of forgot about the damage on the bolt face that sent me down this road in the first place.

After trying to double check the headspace, two things occurred to me. One - I really don't know what I'm doing. Two - I wonder if installing the ejector incorrectly could have caused my problems. I accidentally installed the ejector incorrectly tonight so that it wouldn't fall out, but it wouldn't sit flush with the bolt face when compressed with a dummy round - like when you're setting the collar onto the ejector and sliding the bolt back into the carrier. If a round was chambered, the face of the ejector would be tight against the base of the round while the face of the bolt would be backed off a bit. That maybe might explain why the bolt carrier face is damaged, but the ejector face isn't. I don't know. After a few shots the ejector probably would have got broken or bent. I'm way over my head and sure I'm way off as well. Just a thought.

Since you rented the gauges, checking the headspace, with both bolts makes sense. I don't think I'd get wrapped around the axle over it though.

I doubt excess headspace caused the problems with the bolt face. I think you would notice problems with the expended cartridges, unless you don't pick them up and look at them occasionally. If you reload I'd expect you to notice the brass bulging just above the head or the case wall thinning above the head.

I don't reload and don't really look at expended cartridges much - although I will now. I have some sitting around, but I can't be sure if they're from the Rossi or my Ruger. When I first got the Rossi, I would look at the firing pin strike location on a few spent ones - just to check. Wasn't really looking for anything else. If the damage isn't caused by headspace, you're guess is either it was like that from the factory or someone was beating on it at some time? If so, I could order another carrier from Rossi and hope they send me the right one, or just send them the rifle. I know there's no way to know for sure, but I would like to not worry about the same thing happening again. Thanks again for all your insight and patience. It's appreciated.

Keep in mind this rifle is headspaced on the cartridge rim. There is considerable variation of rim thickness among brass manufacturers. Competition revolver shooters using moon clips are all too aware of this.

Dutch, call up a few local gunsmiths and find one that would check the headspace for you while walking you through the process so you can understand and feel better about the rifle's condition.

I'd be willing to bet that your old bolt is fine, and that the surface dings on the face are cosmetic and won't impair the function or safety of the rifle.

Then you can return the gauges and the new stainless bolt, feeling confident about your rifle again.

Well, I think you guy's got me on the right path. I have to drop off the gauges at the post office tomorrow and I'l' be sending back the stainless bolt carrier soon after. I still might try for another bolt carrier that's actually meant for my model. Like you say, the old bolt is probably still ok, but it really bothers me to look at it. I'll just keep my eyes closed when I have it at the range or cleaning it.