Lesson Learned: Cycling .357 Magnum

[bkydcmpr]

In another topic, I posted my previous experience of fixing the .357 magnum cycle problem:

My new R92 cycled .38 special well, but wouldn't load Federal FMJ 357 Magnum range rounds. It turned out it's the front edge of the carrier is a little too high, so the cartridge got stuck when the the head pushing against the ceiling in the barrel. I sanded down the front edge of the carrier with 220 sandpaper then polished it with 1000 until it looks like dentist's mirror, it started to cycle those rounds previously jammed. I repeated the process 4 times until all 50 rounds .357 in the box cycle smoothly. Also checked with my old .38 special rounds to make sure nothing went wrong.

I might be totally wrong.

Today I received my purple Loctite and disassembled my 92 to secure the screws. After I put things together, the rifle got stuck on .357 magnum again! I thought I fixed it!

I spent an hour couldn't figure out, there's nothing changed except those screws. I use screwdriver poke around, found the 2 rail screws are not completely tightened. I tightened them up, guess what? .357 magnum cycle like butter again!

So that's the problem. Did polishing the carrier helped previously? Now I'm not sure at all. Maybe it was just the 2 screws to begin with. Think about it, the carrier and other parts are machined in the factory, they are not supposed to be off that much. Next time if you got problem with your Rossi, try the simplest steps first!

[Archer]

I have purchased replacement parts on occasion that DID NOT work as well as the parts they were to replace.

WRT firearms I almost always try fixes that don't involve removing metal. Screwdrivers and fit check before I get out the Arkansas stones, the Arkansas stones before the Emory cloth, the Emory cloth before the needle files and power tools are for POLISHING only if that, not material removal.

Production parts should have already been 'fitted' in a modern toleranced design.
Parts that do require fitting are often near net fit anyway.

[Arroyoshark]

Hah ...

You can file metal off ... but you can't file it back on !

[bkydcmpr]

WRT firearms I almost always try fixes that don't involve removing metal.

Agreed. I also regret followed some suggestions on YouTube and cycled it 2 thousands times to smooth it out. I found some spots on the breech and the ejector over worn, seems because I pushed it brutally at a point to "break in". I should find out what caused it first. It is smoothed, but not the way it should be.

[bkydcmpr]

Hah ...

You can file metal off ... but you can't file it back on !

True. The bright side is the carrier is still functional . If I removed material from the chamber I'll be worried.

[Archer]

I wiped all of mine out with solvent and then lubed the contact points with Slip EWL.
Then I hand cycled them 1000 times wiping them out again at 500 rounds or so and putting in new lube.

Mine came without the traditional caking of waxy protectant they normally slather on them or dip them in so I didn't have to blast them out with carb cleaner or gun blaster. I haven't noticed any loose parts. I probably hand cycled each one of them a couple dozen times in the gunshop and was able to run a magtube or two of snap caps through them before taking delivery.

I've found a couple Marlins over the years that weren't put together right based on how they didn't operate smoothly.