s'more weirdness on my new '92

The Rossi Model R92, a lightweight carbine for Cowboy Action, hunting, or plinking! Includes Rossi manufactured Interarms, Navy Arms, and Puma trade names.
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Reese-Mo
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s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by Reese-Mo »

Had some free time today (finally!). One thing I wanted to do was finally get the stock done on the '92. It is finished. I managed to get to the "big-box" and got some Johnson Paste Wax. I dunno why they sell it in the housecleaning section, if its for yer Johnson. At any rate, it works wonders on wood too, no pun intended. The stock is waxed, and has that very old shine to it. A few coats of wax is always a decent thing over _cured_ linseed.

The other thing was I wanted to continue to experiment "adjusting" the gap between the lever and bottom tang. As some may recall, the gap was pretty big, and I got it down to about 1/4 inch or so. I took a real good look at exactly where the extra little bit of movement would need to be allowed for in the hole on the lever, and estimated that it would need only about .025ish to move forward to be flush.

I happened to pick up a new, sharp, carbide burr in 1/8" size, with 1/8" shank. Fits Dremel's perfectly. You gotta run these at really low speed, or else you run the risk of hardening the metal you're trying to cut (when its steel that is). The new WEN rotary tool, that I grabbed on Amazon for $15, goes down to a lower speed than the Dremel, so that was the tool of choice. Marked off "about 25 thou" with some tape. Remove material, squarely, until the burr hits the tape, and should be good to go. That's what I did, and now the lever sits flush with the lower tang. Jeeze, too easy, except.....

The part they call the friction stud didn't quite "hold" the lever closed, but let it slip away a bit instead. I got on the "see-mores" (magnifiers) and it was obvious that the stud wasn't quite touching anything when the lever was fully seated. What would have been good, is to lengthen the notch in the stud, and let it extend out more. But... that's not really possible, as there's precious little to "lengthen" until you run out of stud on which to do so. I think I can make a new stud pretty easily though.

The other thing I noticed was the spring was already "clipped". In other words, where the stud was at its fully extended position (where the pin won't allow further travel), the spring was also at its maximum extension. You could clearly see where the spring was "clipped". Sigh. I dunno. This rifle had a dubious background to begin with, where it came in the wrong box, had no papers, that sort of thing. Makes me really wonder about where it has been. I'm not totally %@*&$ or anything, since it cycles and feeds great. Just... ya know, its not supposed to be anything other than virginal material when you buy it _new_.

I'll see if I can post a picture or two of the completed stock later on.

And, anyone interested in a Dremel-like tool might want to check out the WEN 23103. The prices on those vary, and goes anywhere from $15 to $20 on Amazon, as a "kit" with a flex shaft and some basic grinding and polishing accessories. Goes a little slower than any Dremel, although it does lack power in the very slowest setting (just bump the RPMs a tiny bit of you need more oomph). Bearings on mine were perfect. Takes all the Dremel collets and accessories, and the cord is longer too. Great value there. I'm pretty much known as "Mr. Dremel" at work, keeping one with buffing wheel, one with sanding drum, one with cutoff wheels, one with a Cratex wheel.... you get the picture. I just grab the one that's already set up. Hell, there's three more Dremel's at the house here, plus the WEN, and the WEN stacks up nicely.
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by JimN »

You might be better off building up the ramp where the stud rests. Depending on how big the gap is on the "wasn't quite touching", a longer stud could lead to binding issues on the closing stroke. Your looking at having to cut/grind/sand a longer bevel on the new stud unless you relieve that end of the lever slot in the reciever. which could lead to binding issues anyway.
If I remember right, my RH had that clipped spring look also when I took it apart, and it was NIB.
Reese-Mo
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by Reese-Mo »

This weekend, time permitting, I plan on making a completely new stud with offset "point". I dinno how far it'll protrude. I'll have to sort of wing it on that aspect.
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by Archer »

If somebody clipped the spring they might have buffed back the point as well.
The point buffing (NOT the spring clipping) was one of the recommendations by Kiowa Nate in his vid if I recall correctly.
All 3 of mine came without a sharp edge from the factory so I didn't bother.
Reese-Mo
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by Reese-Mo »

Mine's not sharp. But its been dry cycled hundreds of times too, so dunno its original state.
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by runfiverun »

been easier to expand the loop part of the lever to fit the rifle.
Reese-Mo
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Re: s'more weirdness on my new '92

Post by Reese-Mo »

Nah....
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