Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
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Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
Stripped, cleaned, my new Marlin 336C & installed Trigger Happy kit, Brownells spring kit, Bear Proof Ejector kit in 14 minutes from first turn on first screw to last turn on last screw.
Trigger measured with RCBS pull gauge after Trigger Happy Kit installation....... 3 1/4 pounds........just right for hunting. Cycling is a lot slicker with the Brownells spring kit....the old hammer spring was really coarse & heavy....difference is like night & day.
It doesn't take me much longer for a 92......I'm probably faster than RD.
After doing the job on my two Guide Guns it was all muscle memory without consulting any external references and I'm not the most dexterous person on Earth having 2 left hands with 10 thumbs.
For you guys who are balking at your first complete strip & tune-up of a rifle it's all about repetition & confidence.
Trigger measured with RCBS pull gauge after Trigger Happy Kit installation....... 3 1/4 pounds........just right for hunting. Cycling is a lot slicker with the Brownells spring kit....the old hammer spring was really coarse & heavy....difference is like night & day.
It doesn't take me much longer for a 92......I'm probably faster than RD.
After doing the job on my two Guide Guns it was all muscle memory without consulting any external references and I'm not the most dexterous person on Earth having 2 left hands with 10 thumbs.
For you guys who are balking at your first complete strip & tune-up of a rifle it's all about repetition & confidence.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
I'll have to look into the spring kit. I just finished putting my 336 back together and was disappointed with how clunky it is.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
Marlin 336C - 35 Remington
Internal work & tune-up done, scope installed & bore sighted (Leupold 2-7x33mm + EGW rail + Weaver rings), Quake "Claw" sling, nylon cartridge holder on butt stock, thumb spur on hammer. The gun is ready for the on paper sight in (100 yards) at the range.
It shoulders real nice with my eye right in front of the ocular lens at proper eye relief without any fidgeting.
All in a good evenings work.
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- Tuco Ramirez
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
Got a question Pricedo, since you have discussed how much you like the claw sling I had to do some research on them. The vast majority of folks just love this sling. The only minor complant I could find is the swivel's. Have you had any issues with that?
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
The Quake "Claw" sling you see on the 35 above has the conventional metal swivel & eye on both ends. I like the forearm band attachment on the 336 as it is at the right balance point for this gun.Tuco Ramirez wrote:Got a question Pricedo, since you have discussed how much you like the claw sling I had to do some research on them. The vast majority of folks just love this sling. The only minor complant I could find is the swivel's. Have you had any issues with that?
Other Quake "Claw" slings I use have the conventional metal swivel & eye on the butt stock end and a soft nylon choker loop on the barrel/mag tube end. I use the latter type on my pre-64 model 94s because I don't want to mar the delicate (& irreplaceable) mag tubes on those old heirloom guns with clamps. The soft nylon choker loops never slip off.
I have no complaints whatsoever with the swivels.
I think they call these slings "Claw" slings because the soft rubber pad will not slip on clothing like leather slings do. I hate a sling I have to keep adjusting as I go through the bush because of slippage. There is no slippage whatsoever with the Quake "Claw" sling.
I love it.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
The hammers on those new Marlin 336s are as stiff as tree stumps out of the box.klr wrote:I'll have to look into the spring kit. I just finished putting my 336 back together and was disappointed with how clunky it is.
Installing the Brownells kit only takes a few minutes & makes all the difference in the world to smooth & effortless action cycling and for less than $6 from Brownells you can't go wrong.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
Thanks Pricedo!!
Yea I hate the sliping around myself. Its even worse when you have a back pack on. Think I may give them a try.
Yea I hate the sliping around myself. Its even worse when you have a back pack on. Think I may give them a try.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
So is the lever catch spring. I used pull gauge and it takes almost 5lbs of force to break the lever free from the catch. After that the rest of the cycle is surprisingly smooth.pricedo wrote: The hammers on those new Marlin 336s are as stiff as tree stumps out of the box.
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Re: Tuned up Marlin 336C......14 minutes
A coupla more things:
1) the provided hammer spurs have a tendency to work loose and fall off after a while. When installing these I turn the gun on its side and put 2 or 3 drops of blue (removeable) Loctite down the hole before putting the locking nut in.......after that nothing will move. Nothing more maddening than trying to thumb the hammer back & ooops no spur. There's not alotta clearance between the hammer and the scope tube on my 336C.......that's the way I like it.
2) the rear leaf sight is fold down......this will matter if you like to install your scopes close to the steel on a 336 like I do. In a bush gun that might under exigent circumstances turn into a survival gun I don't like to remove sighting alternatives so I leave the factory iron sights on.
3) the factory red plastic mag follower has a concave dimple in the middle.......this is for pointed Hornady LeveRevolution ammo......if it is replaced by a metal follower without a dimple you might have trouble with cartridge log jams in the mag tube if you're using the Hornady LeveRevolution ammo.
* I find the Remlin checkering kinda amateurish......the checkering on my 35 is as thin as a shadow........I'll eventually sand it off and checker the stocks myself if I can find my tools under 30 years of junk in the shed. My old 336C didn't have any checkering which is preferable to poorly done checkering. I used to be pretty good at it. We'll see if checkering is a permanent skill like riding a bike or swimming. No hurry......as long as it shoots good & anchors the venison to the ground I'll be a happy camper.
1) the provided hammer spurs have a tendency to work loose and fall off after a while. When installing these I turn the gun on its side and put 2 or 3 drops of blue (removeable) Loctite down the hole before putting the locking nut in.......after that nothing will move. Nothing more maddening than trying to thumb the hammer back & ooops no spur. There's not alotta clearance between the hammer and the scope tube on my 336C.......that's the way I like it.
2) the rear leaf sight is fold down......this will matter if you like to install your scopes close to the steel on a 336 like I do. In a bush gun that might under exigent circumstances turn into a survival gun I don't like to remove sighting alternatives so I leave the factory iron sights on.
3) the factory red plastic mag follower has a concave dimple in the middle.......this is for pointed Hornady LeveRevolution ammo......if it is replaced by a metal follower without a dimple you might have trouble with cartridge log jams in the mag tube if you're using the Hornady LeveRevolution ammo.
* I find the Remlin checkering kinda amateurish......the checkering on my 35 is as thin as a shadow........I'll eventually sand it off and checker the stocks myself if I can find my tools under 30 years of junk in the shed. My old 336C didn't have any checkering which is preferable to poorly done checkering. I used to be pretty good at it. We'll see if checkering is a permanent skill like riding a bike or swimming. No hurry......as long as it shoots good & anchors the venison to the ground I'll be a happy camper.
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