Rossi Rifleman

Hi all,

Ok, the loading port on my R92 .44 has edges that would make a box cutter jealous. I'm looking to either round-off or at least bevel the edges of the loading port.

The metalwork side of things I'm happy with. My R92 has the black finish so as soon as I take a file to the loading port the metal will then shine through. What would be the best thing to re-finish the newly exposed metal with?

I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this so I'd appreciate and advice.

Cheers,

Rich

I've used Oxpho-Blue for more than 60 years. There's nothing better.

Oxpho-Blue will almost instantly generate a deep blue (not black) even on mirror-polished steel. There's no danger of after-rust if all of it isn't cleaned up. And it poses no danger to already-blued surfaces.

I don't want to pick on brand names, but the common sporting goods department cold blues will actually remove existing bluing if you're not careful to clean it up. That small bottle of Oxpho-Blue shown in the link will last you half a lifetime, even if you have a whole lot of guns.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tool ... d1108.aspx

Do you prefer the cream over the liquid? What do you use for an applicator? Do you rinse between applications? Thanks!

For about the first 50-some years* I used the liquid because that's what Oxpho-Blue was. I'd guess I started using the creme about 10 years ago. I like it because it's not runny. I keep a bottle of each around and use what seems appropriate at the moment.

During normal touchup you don't have to worry about degreasing/deoiling. Oxpho-Blue will work right through it. And I don't worry about rinsing it off when it's done its job. It won't hurt anything. I just wipe it off and apply EEZOX, LPS 3, Barricade, or just plain oil -- again, whatever strikes me as appropriate at the moment. I spend enough time caring for my guns that I don't worry about -- and don't have -- rust.

BTW, my most fequent use for Oxpho-Blue is maintaining the appearance of screw heads. As careful as I might be with correctly-fitted screwdrivers I sometimes will raise a bright spot or ridge on the slot. I hate it when I do that. So, I chuck even the tiniest screw into the chuck on my drill press and hit the head with 320-, 400-, 600-grit silicon carbide paper (black Wet-or-Dry), then dab on Oxpho-Blue with a Q-Tip. The head looks as though it came from 1930s S&W revolver.

But, all this is just me. I find myself using it somewhere whenever I clean a gun.

* (I'm 78. I started buying gun stuff from Bob Brownell when I was 13 or 14.)

I’ve been using Birchwood Casey for a long time, and often been disappointed. The most recent project was a bolt handle after forging, and it was a disaster. I’m forging another handle today, and I’m looking forward to better results with Oxpho.

Oxpho is pretty good and I've had decent luck with Blue Wonder. For contrary small parts that refuse to chemical blue, I run a torch over them until they turn indigo and dunk 'em in dirty oil. Turns out right purty.



Edited to Add: I would not apply this much heat to any spring, including the Loading Gate.

Sarge wrote:Oxpho is pretty good and I've had decent luck with Blue Wonder. For contrary small parts that refuse to chemical blue, I run a torch over them until they turn indigo and dunk 'em in dirty oil. Turns out right purty.

I put a rear sight on the grate in my gas grille until it got "really hot" but not see-through then dunked it in ATF. Came out like case color hardening or whatever we're supposed to call it. I heat up parts with a hair dryer to use "cold blue". I wipe them off with alcohol before and wash them with soap and water after they cool.