Rossi Rifleman

I have just been perusing a few of the threads relating to cleaning the barrel on a R92. There are those that detail cleaning from breech to muzzle, and those that advocate cleaning from muzzle to breech. Not to mention those for or against constant taking down of the rifle just for cleaning purposes.

OK, so over the last 20 years or so I have been using Bore Snakes, of various calibres from .223, .243, .308. 9mm. 12g and 20g and now, thanks to having my R92, .357.

I personally find them very effective if they are used properly. My experience has been that using a BS should be done as soon as is practicable after shooting, preferably whilst the barrel is still warm. I just liberally wet the abrasive part with some Hoppes 009 and pull through. If this is done whilst there is some 'heat' in the barrel it's amazing just how much crud it shifts.

Of course this is only an interim process. I still road and patch once I'm home but I find that there is a lot less to clean out if I've Bore Snaked the barrel beforehand.

Of course with a R92 it makes for swift cleaning without having to take down the rifle to do so.

What say you guys? 'Snake' or no 'Snake'..??

I too use a snake at the range and some times a rod when I get home, usually when I see the need to de-lead or de-copper.

Make smoke,

I mostly use a snake on my lever guns unless the bolt is easy to remove like a Marlin.

I also use a brass muzzle guide when needed.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning- ... 32992.aspx

I have, and use, bore snakes for every caliber (or gauge) I own. Since I shoot 90-95% cast/reloads in my metallic cartridge guns, the bore snakes get used a lot. Since all of my shooting is now done at the range, and that's at least weekly, the bore snakes are in the shooting bag. Since I usually just load and shoot five round strings with my lever guns, that's when the bore snake (dry) gets pulled through the barrel a couple of trips. Rarely is it necessary to run rods with patches or brushes with "chemicals" through the bore when less than 100 cast bullets have been run through. And, once you've messed the barrel up by playing the "squeaky clean game" you have to shoot a dozen or so fouling rounds through to re-season things to get the accuracy back.

I've found that a well fitting, dry bore snake does a really good job of removing powder fouling/residue out of the barrel as well as a small amount of lead fouling. A proper fitting bullet shouldn't leave behind much lead fouling unless the barrel itself has some irregularities. And, just personal opinion, it seems that when shooting only lead that having a tiny bit of lead fouling in those tight recesses of the lands and grooves tends to make a positive improvement. BUT, keep in mind that I've only stated my experience concerning lead projectiles. With jacketed bullets, which I seldom re-load/shoot, I don't want any fouling or lead residue in those "recesses".

Just my 3¢ worth

jd

Did you peruse this thread?

https://www.rossi-rifleman.com/viewtopi ... g&start=10

I find bore snakes to be a good first step, but they’re not very thorough.

Not really a fan of bore snakes. Main reason is "why clean twice". Or put another way, I tend to want to keep the bore clean, and use a rod, with muzzle guide, bronze brush and patches on jag to do so. I dunno, maybe using a snake makes things easier later. Just seems like an extra chore because it doesn't eliminate a chore.

I have to admit to being a fan of letting the chemicals do the work.
Soaking the inside of a barrel down in Hoppes overnight and then wiping it out seems to work pretty well.
Using a copper solvent IF and when necessary cuts way down on scrubbing.

I seem to get the best results using a jag that pushes the patch into the corners of the lands and grooves.

Using a carbon cutter on certain parts that may need carbon removal.
Keeping the gun properly lubed where the lube can float some of the crude that might get in the action.

I'm not a huge fan of CLP/LPX or other all in ones. They can work but they don't seem to lube as well as specific lubes or to clean as well as specific cleaners.

I'm a fan of using a jag to spread the patch out into the nooks and crannies of the bore, using the slotted tip with a couple patches to clean out the chamber. I use bore guides with lever actions and semi autos that have fixed/closed receivers (M1/M1A/10-22 etc..) I have bore snakes and use them as a quick pass from time to time but I find a field cleaning kit with a sectioned rod is a good thing to have at the range just in case and I can name a half dozen to a dozen cases. Bronze/Brass brushes for a few passes more than likely dry rather than dipped in solvent that can eat them up in short order. Nylon brushes sometimes wrapped in a patch to act as a jag on premium barrels but otherwise I don't find them too useful.

Archer wrote: Using a copper solvent IF and when necessary cuts way down on scrubbing.

I seem to get the best results using a jag that pushes the patch into the corners of the lands and grooves.

I'm not a huge fan of CLP/LPX or other all in ones. They can work but they don't seem to lube as well as specific lubes or to clean as well as specific cleaners.

Nylon brushes

I pretty much use Hoppe's Bench Rest all of the time. To me.... and my nose.... it smells more like, and acts more like the Hoppe's of my youth in the early 1960's. But to each his own. It does cut the copper. I remember those "plated" .22's of yesteryear and the copper they'd leave in my old Marlin. I'd pretty much shoot from Friday to Sunday, and dad instilled the "clean gun is a happy gun" ethos in me. I'd shoot till dark, clean the gun (sometimes before supper, so the smell would tick off my sister). Next morning, first thing to do, was run a patch down the barrel again, which looking back... I think was above my years in forethought. Anyway, those patches always came out blue/green and I wondered why. I think I was in my 40's before I realized why. Sigh. Anyway, modern Hoppe's doesn't seem to cut the copper as well as old Hoppe's, and the Bench Rest version seems mighty close to the old stuff, both in stink and performance.

Once being all in for CLP, I've got a gallon of it here, from which about 6 ounces have been used. I tried it once on some tack when I was plum outta neatsfoot. Worked amazingly well! That's about all I can say. The Girines & Grunts seem to want their M16/M4 swim in the stuff, and it might work well for their particular use, dunno. I've also used it to coat the top of shop tools, aks bandsaw table, table saw table, jointer table... to keep the rust off, and its worked ok for that purpose.

Nylon brushes.... I love a good stiff toothbrush, and you can't get 'em no more. All the toothbrushes are girly brushes, suitable for infant gums and/or chasing the crevasses surrounding thrombosed hemorrhoids. So, I get those gun cleanin' brushes that resemble toothbrushes. My GF is aghast. I go to overnight visit with friends on occasion, and they are aghast. I just tell 'em its my "NRA toothbrush". They're clueless. I know its not the kind of brush you were talkin about Archer, but... I just thought I'd add that in.

golfish wrote: https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning- ... 32992.aspx

Why is that threaded on the inside?

I don't really know about that one, maybe it's just the pic..
I have 3-4 of them, none of them have threads