Rossi Rifleman

Shot ol muzzle loaders have used beeswax for many years. To keep metal protected.

akuser47 wrote:The good thing about stainless is there is no chemical finish. If my stainles starts rusting. I just polish or sand/scrub it out. If it has bead bkasted flat stainless I have used wet dry sand paper In fine grits on those. Rossi stainless steel does not seem as high qaulity as what rugers use or beretta. Others will chime in but. Stainless is great for ease of removing rust. Always test your method in a hidden spot to see if your results are what you want.

It seems to me that the Rossi SS rusts about the same as Ruger SS as far as rust-resistance goes. All high carbon stainless will rust, just slower and in a more manageable way.

I had a customer that lent a brand-new stainless Ruger rifle to a buddy for a hunt. The guy dropped the rifle in the bilge in a skiff, where it sat for a couple hours in the salt water, and then he shook it off and hunted with it for several days. He had a round chambered and never opened the action. After several days of hunting, he returned to town, stuffed the rifle in a soft case, and left it there for a couple weeks before returning it. When my customer got it back, it was so rusted the bolt could not be opened. He soaked it with penetrating oil for weeks and still could not get the bolt open. He asked Ruger for a price on refurbishing it. Ruger told him to send it back to them, and that was when the guy who borrowed it admitted that he had failed to unload it and it had a live round in the chamber. It was too rusted to open the bolt and too rusted to fire the cartridge. They finally got the bolt open at the expense of a broken bolt, but the cartridge was still stuck in the chamber. He sent it back to Ruger who, instead of quoting a price for refurbishing, simply replaced the rifle at no cost.

I see a lot of badly rusted stainless firearms up here, because people assume that there is no need to protect them from rust. I had a stainless Savage recently that was in very poor shape cosmetically because the owner in Barrow stored it in his skiff.

Bronze wool is the stuff for taking the light surface rust off of stainless, and as mentioned, waxes can help with rust prevention, as can rifle grease. The Swiss did all of their cleaning and lubing with grease - they even cleaned their bores with grease. I have yet to see a Swiss K31 rifle that has any evidence of rust unless it happened after it was surplussed, and all bores I have seen are like mirrors.

By the way, grease or wax can be used to protect the hidden areas of the metal, even if you prefer not to use it on the surface; inside the forend and under the buttplate, in the screw holes in the wood, around the tangs. Just make sure if you use a heavy grease, it is one that is safe for wood. Muzzle-loader shooters have been using grease in their barrel channels forever.

All good info, thank you guys

A couple of days to a week in molasses would have fixed that rust problem. But hey getting a new gun works too.

7.62 Precision wrote:By the way, grease or wax can be used to protect the hidden areas of the metal, even if you prefer not to use it on the surface; inside the forend and under the buttplate, in the screw holes in the wood, around the tangs. Just make sure if you use a heavy grease, it is one that is safe for wood. Muzzle-loader shooters have been using grease in their barrel channels forever.

I have become hooked on the idea and use of Moly lube or grease aka: molybdenum disulfide. I've seen users of it had it in a syringe type packaging. I have found it in my local Autozone for 5 bucks, 14oz cartridge. Will last forever, no need to pay higher prices for smaller packaging.

Barearmz wrote:A couple of days to a week in molasses would have fixed that rust problem. But hey getting a new gun works too.

More info?

I mentioned on the 21st of my completion of my "slick" job, I did not mention my failure to figure out with confidence how to remove the firing pin to assure all factory crud had been removed. I searched our data base here and surprisingly came up empty. What I did find in a thread mentioning the replacement of springs and such was a link to stevespages.com and in that a manual for a Browning 92. A PDF file called browning_b92.pdf,
According to this manual, you do not have to remove the firing pin stop pin, simply rotate the firing pin 180degrees and that will allow it to slide out. As this is a new Rossi, removing the safety switch will need to be done first (I assume). I hope to pull the bolt out soon and test this. The PDF is worth downloading for a reference.

Wanted to give credit where it's due. I found that info above because of input from donhuff that led to a link that led to another link and the pdf....and the beat goes on, thanks donhuff

Moly Kote ! Haven't heard that in awhile.Should have some around here somewhere ?

Jim