My Start

[GasGuzzler]

Put it all back together yesterday to clear the bench for my PID endeavor. Found no issues. I can smack the back of the cocked hammer with a rubber mallet and it won't let go.

[donhuff]

ok then. that part sounds like it's ok. and maybe you did just bump the trigger for the AD.

But the FTFs have me puzzled as like I said, we never see this in the 92 models. The Rio Grande models showed me what a light hammer spring "WONT" do. I cut one or two coils of to make the levering action lighter. It would not fire without 3-4 hammer strikes on one primer. I did the same thing with my 41 redhawk and had to order a new spring. (I'll learn one day) I know you say the spring is strong, but it's real hard to tell a 30 lb spring from a 40 lb spring, when your trying to compress it with your finger tips.

The reason I keep harping on the spring is because there aint nothing to the system but hammer, firing pin, primer! And you said the firing pin moves freely.

I made a tool for holding the spring out of a piece of aluminum rod for the handle, and piano wire for the pin. Works great and will never bend/break.

[donhuff]

Slam fire are just not gonna happen because of the slowness of action movement, no matter how fast you think you are, your not THAT fast.
And also if you study the cutaway pictures. You can see how the lever retracts the Fpin, right before the bolt closes. Don't believe me? with the muzzle pointed up. Push the lever open all the way. Now slowly close the lever while holding the trigger down and watch the pin hole. This will keep a forward pressure on the pin and it will start sticking out of its hole, once the bolt goes forward enough to get to the point that the hammer contacts the pin. Keep closing it slowly and watching the pin. Bout a 1/2" from fully closed SHAZAM, the pin eases back into the hole
Keep closing and you'll see that right as the bolt gets to the point that you can barely see the pin, the pin comes back out.

All this is because of those funny looking swoops and angles cut on the bolt end of the lever. AND those odd cuts in the firing pin along it's mid section.

Mr. Browning was truly a thinking man, as almost every part in these gun has more than one function, and they all have to work in concert, to make the music we like to hear. Well maybe the steel butt plate has only one job.....to inflict pain!

[GasGuzzler]

I made a tool for holding the spring out of a piece of aluminum rod for the handle, and piano wire for the pin. Works great and will never bend/break.

I am making one also. I am starting with a pin GM uses to ship pre-loaded timing chain tensioners. From what I can tell, the hole in my spring rod is about 0.040" because the last "tool" I used is about 0.038" and the GM pin is 0.045" and doesn't yet fit. I'm going to take a little more off the GM pin then polish it.

[GasGuzzler]

Found (by accident) a spring at work that looked kinda like an ejector spring. It had thinner wire and was too long. Both are OK.

Cut half and inch off and went to work. Cut two coils at a time until I got close, then one, then 1/2.

Works well now.

[GasGuzzler]

Done now?

Propped the gate open through the top with the bolt open and filed the inside of the receiver at the gate entry with a tiny half round file. Did the same to the front outer edge of the gate.

Pulled the front end off again to shorten the follower spring by about 2", open the mag tube and barrel slots with a small round file, and fit the hidden top of the forend by cutting out the cracked paper thin section at the rear and semi-floating the wood by sanding the channel with 100 grit wrapped around a socket.