Question about Tru-Oil curing

The Rossi Model R92, a lightweight carbine for Cowboy Action, hunting, or plinking! Includes Rossi manufactured Interarms, Navy Arms, and Puma trade names.
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Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by RetiredGuns »

I have 4 coats of Tru-Oil on my new 92 .357 and and wondering if it is absolutely necessary to wait 7 days before I use the Sheen & Conditioner to get the desired finish I'm after? The Tru-Oil worked fantastic and feels great but I am not to keen on the ultra-gloss look and am anxious to carry on! The finish feels well dry, but I reckon letting it harden for a week would even be better.

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Steve
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by pricedo »

RetiredGuns wrote:I have 4 coats of Tru-Oil on my new 92 .357 and and wondering if it is absolutely necessary to wait 7 days before I use the Sheen & Conditioner to get the desired finish I'm after? The Tru-Oil worked fantastic and feels great but I am not to keen on the ultra-gloss look and am anxious to carry on! The finish feels well dry, but I reckon letting it harden for a week would even be better.

Thanks
Steve
The Tru-Oil makes for an attractive finish on the Rossi mystery jungle wood.........looks remarkably like the finish on my Chiappa Mare's Leg which is real walnut.
It's also great stuff for getting into the wood and protecting and preserving it from the elements as well as drying in the w/m contact areas to form a water seal.
I've used it on my Rossi M92/454 and will do my other 2 x Rossi 92s eventually.
The 454 gets the most use so I did it first.
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by Arktikos »

I didn't know about the sheen and conditioner, nor the 7 day wait. I just applied a couple coats with some dry time in between with a bit of steel wool and called it good enough as it was far nicer than what it came into the world with! If I made it too pretty I may never want to take it out... :mrgreen:
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by pricedo »

Arktikos wrote:I didn't know about the sheen and conditioner, nor the 7 day wait. I just applied a couple coats with some dry time in between with a bit of steel wool and called it good enough as it was far nicer than what it came into the world with! If I made it too pretty I may never want to take it out... :mrgreen:
The "stickiness" of the freshly treated stock surface never changed much after 48 hours which seems to be the optimum curing time for the Tru-Oil at room temperature.
Conditioner :?: :?:
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

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The Stock Sheen & Conditioner is a polish with certain abrasives to give the final result a very smooth yet semi=gloss finish. That is exactly what I am after as the gun just doesn't look right looking like a shiny new penny! I just wonder if I can forgo the suggested 7 day wait as I want to get it together and to the range.
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by Arktikos »

RetiredGuns wrote:The Stock Sheen & Conditioner is a polish with certain abrasives to give the final result a very smooth yet semi=gloss finish. That is exactly what I am after as the gun just doesn't look right looking like a shiny new penny! I just wonder if I can forgo the suggested 7 day wait as I want to get it together and to the range.
My take on tru oil is it is a very versatile finish that you can add to at any time so if it doesn't come out right, touch it with 400 grit and give it a couple more coats anytime. 7 days seems overkill, but thats just me.
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

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I decided that it was plenty dry to go ahead and finish. I wiped it down with the Sheen & Conditioner, followed with a high quality polish and the results are good. I'll take some natural light pics and post them. It's an easy process and well worth doing. I now have 4 coats of natural finish that feels smooth as a baby's butt & will protect the wood.
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing

Post by Model 52 »

The last brochure I got from BC (recently) indicated waiting at least 3 days before using stock sheen and conditioner, not 7 days. Three days worked just fine on mine at room temp and about 50% humidity.

I suspect atmospherics, temperature and humidity may also play a role, so if it's curing in the cold, or in very humid conditions, you may want to add more time - or let it cure somewhere warmer and less humid.
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