I have 4 coats of Tru-Oil on my new 92 .357 and and wondering if it is absolutely necessary to wait 7 days before I use the Sheen & Conditioner to get the desired finish I'm after? The Tru-Oil worked fantastic and feels great but I am not to keen on the ultra-gloss look and am anxious to carry on! The finish feels well dry, but I reckon letting it harden for a week would even be better.
Thanks
Steve
Question about Tru-Oil curing
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
The Tru-Oil makes for an attractive finish on the Rossi mystery jungle wood.........looks remarkably like the finish on my Chiappa Mare's Leg which is real walnut.RetiredGuns wrote:I have 4 coats of Tru-Oil on my new 92 .357 and and wondering if it is absolutely necessary to wait 7 days before I use the Sheen & Conditioner to get the desired finish I'm after? The Tru-Oil worked fantastic and feels great but I am not to keen on the ultra-gloss look and am anxious to carry on! The finish feels well dry, but I reckon letting it harden for a week would even be better.
Thanks
Steve
It's also great stuff for getting into the wood and protecting and preserving it from the elements as well as drying in the w/m contact areas to form a water seal.
I've used it on my Rossi M92/454 and will do my other 2 x Rossi 92s eventually.
The 454 gets the most use so I did it first.
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
I didn't know about the sheen and conditioner, nor the 7 day wait. I just applied a couple coats with some dry time in between with a bit of steel wool and called it good enough as it was far nicer than what it came into the world with! If I made it too pretty I may never want to take it out...
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
The "stickiness" of the freshly treated stock surface never changed much after 48 hours which seems to be the optimum curing time for the Tru-Oil at room temperature.Arktikos wrote:I didn't know about the sheen and conditioner, nor the 7 day wait. I just applied a couple coats with some dry time in between with a bit of steel wool and called it good enough as it was far nicer than what it came into the world with! If I made it too pretty I may never want to take it out...
Conditioner
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
The Stock Sheen & Conditioner is a polish with certain abrasives to give the final result a very smooth yet semi=gloss finish. That is exactly what I am after as the gun just doesn't look right looking like a shiny new penny! I just wonder if I can forgo the suggested 7 day wait as I want to get it together and to the range.
Steve
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
My take on tru oil is it is a very versatile finish that you can add to at any time so if it doesn't come out right, touch it with 400 grit and give it a couple more coats anytime. 7 days seems overkill, but thats just me.RetiredGuns wrote:The Stock Sheen & Conditioner is a polish with certain abrasives to give the final result a very smooth yet semi=gloss finish. That is exactly what I am after as the gun just doesn't look right looking like a shiny new penny! I just wonder if I can forgo the suggested 7 day wait as I want to get it together and to the range.
No such thing as bad weather in Alaska, just lousy clothing choices!
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
I decided that it was plenty dry to go ahead and finish. I wiped it down with the Sheen & Conditioner, followed with a high quality polish and the results are good. I'll take some natural light pics and post them. It's an easy process and well worth doing. I now have 4 coats of natural finish that feels smooth as a baby's butt & will protect the wood.
Steve
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Re: Question about Tru-Oil curing
The last brochure I got from BC (recently) indicated waiting at least 3 days before using stock sheen and conditioner, not 7 days. Three days worked just fine on mine at room temp and about 50% humidity.
I suspect atmospherics, temperature and humidity may also play a role, so if it's curing in the cold, or in very humid conditions, you may want to add more time - or let it cure somewhere warmer and less humid.
I suspect atmospherics, temperature and humidity may also play a role, so if it's curing in the cold, or in very humid conditions, you may want to add more time - or let it cure somewhere warmer and less humid.