Two infamous Remlins

[rman]

Case# 1 - Remlin 39A .22 LR

Last year I started shooting NRA CLA Silhouette in the small bore class (.22 LR). I started with a Henry H001T - 20" octagon barrel, with a Williams Foolproof rear sight with target knobs. I wasn't doing well and decided another rifle was the answer. I found a recently manufactured Marlin 39A at the gun shop near our rifle range. The salesman told me that its previous owner had used it in CLA, but got out of the sport due to advancing age. It looked like it was all set up and ready to go. It had a Williams FP w/TKs on the rear and a red Williams Firesight bead on the front. It was also obvious that someone had done a very nice trigger job on the rifle. I was certain that my newly acquired rifle would be just what I needed. A trip to the range showed a lot of promise - this rifle was accurate! I shot it in the next match and was doing well with it. That is, until about half way through the 40 round match. Suddenly the rifle quit extracting spent rounds and it ruined my day. I took it home, disassembled it, and inspected the extractor and it seemed OK. I thought that the chamber might need a thorough cleaning and ordered a new extractor, just in case. My next range trip proved me wrong. I started hitting the internet and found that I was not alone. This was a well-known problem and lots of solutions were offered.

Marlin has used 3 different extractors since 1913.

1913-1957



1958-1971



1972-Present (This is the one that came in my late model 39a)



Many of the 39a fans on the Marlin and Rimfire Central forums claim that the 2nd type is the one that will cure the extraction problem. Marlin no longer stocks this part. Wisner's makes a newly manufactured part. The bolt design hasn't changed since 1958, so this type also fits the late model 39a rifles. I ordered and received this part and I installed it in the rifle. It took a bit of filing to make it fit, but now fits nicely. In my rifle, this solved the problem. I've shot over 500 rounds through it and it always extracts - throws the spent cases at least 6 feet. In spite of all the lawyer inspired safety features, I am now very pleased with the rifle.

Case# 2 - Remlin 336 .30-30 Win

Two years ago I bought a new Model 336 for hog hunting. I took it to the range for a trial run. I found that it shot several inches high at 50 yards with the sight elevator set in its lowest position. Other than that, the rifle functioned well and was reasonably accurate. Like most Marlins, the trigger was heavy, but breaks cleanly. I took a guess and ordered a higher red fibre optic front sight blade and a Williams Foolproof rear sight. I haven't got around to dealing with the trigger yet, but overall I'm pretty pleased with the gun now. My next step will be a Wild West trigger and a spring set.

It looks like Marlin has as many issues with its lever actions as Rossi does with its model 92. I'm in the process of getting a 92 ready for competition now. A guy shouldn't have to tinker with these things, but it seems that with a little patience and some hard work, they can be made to shoot like they should. It's aggravating, but kind of fun though. Sorry for the long-winded post.

[akuser47]

Nice

[Tuco Ramirez]

All I can say is they are ALL having CC issues. I just spent over 8 hours working on my brothers Savage model 25 in 17 HMR. The internal trigger parts had dimples all over them from the injection process when they are made. I worked on the detectable Mag. Top was to high hitting the bottom of the bolt. The chamber was a mess. Had to pull the barrel and work on the chamber.

For anyone that has the new model 25 in 17 HMR you will find out real fast you have to operate the bolt on the fast side. From the time the case leaves the Mag until it arrives in the chamber there is NO support or guide. The case fly's unsupported until it arrives to the chamber. If anyone has one and wants to know how to fix it drop me a line.

Back on subject, you have (3) choices. Send it back and have the factory do a minimum amount of repairs, send it to a gunsmith or fit it yourself. I don't trust anyone to fix it right other than myself.

[mr surveyor]

do rimfires still have the same problem with dry fire dings on the chamber mouth? I know that used to be one of the major issues with both failure to feed and failure to eject with rim fire guns. The ding can be easily taken out, with the right tool.


JD

[Archer]

do rimfires still have the same problem with dry fire dings on the chamber mouth? I know that used to be one of the major issues with both failure to feed and failure to eject with rim fire guns. The ding can be easily taken out, with the right tool.


JD

Many rimfires STILL have the problem and MOST older rimfires have the problem.
You can get the dimple on the breech face PLUS dull or break the firing pin.
Even if the pin doesn't break it might not hit the case rim hard enough to reliably set the cartridge off.
The breech face dimple leaves the rim unsupported and can let the case blow out and vent at that location.

Other than the Ruger MK II I tend NOT to dry fire rimfires and I've still have had to replace the firing pin at least once in 25 years or so after firing tens to hundreds of thousands of rounds through the gun and countless dry firings.

[mr surveyor]

I used to get chided pretty well for dry firing my .22's, and dinging the chamber made me a believer

Several years ago I bought a lightly used, but somewhat abused, Henry .22 rifle for my Son and Grandson from a "friend". A quick look at the gun pretty well told me why he had problems with it ... the ding was obvious. At the time I had a gun shop buddy that had "the tool" for fixing the ding. It took a couple of trys to get it right, but that was the best $150 I think I ever spent on a fairly nice rifle (if you like the faux brass plating on the Henry). Before the "repair", that gun just would NOT cycle anything. Now it's smooth as silk.

I'd heard or read that most modern, better quality, .22 cal firearms had a detent or some type of notch in the chamber for the firing pin to recess into if the gun was dry fired, thus eliminating the dinging issue. I just don't know.

JD

[akuser47]

Use a spent case as a dry fire device i always do in my .17,.22.any rimfire protects the pin and breach face