use the projection at the bottom of the bolt to hold the spring. The collar sits on top of the projection.
Like I said, I had read the instructions and watched the video (and had it on the bench) and was well versed in what to do, but doing it was frustrating, to say the least. And I am still not sure the spring is doing anything different from the factory - I guess when I go to the range I will find out if the empties fall at my feet, but in the shop they fly over my right shoulder.
I replace most of my pistol and revolver trigger return springs with Wolff reduced power, but I have removed the reduced power mainsprings and replaced the factory springs because of light strikes and FTFs (which some noted with the Lee mainspring). I do have some rifles that I shoot from the bench that I like the trigger to be around 2 lbs or so, but for a rifle that I carry afield I prefer a heavier trigger pull - I have been surprised a couple of times and don't like it. I also very gingerly touched the trigger/sear and hammer notch with hard Arkansas stones and it breaks nicely for a lever action, around 3-4 lbs; I would not want it to be any lighter. All in all, I guess I am o.k. with it, but as of right now, it was worth the time and effort because I smoothed up all the moving surfaces and deburred it. I will shoot it before I do anything else, and then consider finishing the wood on it. I am debating removing the forend vs taping the metal and finishing it as it lies, using Woodstocks Amazin' Stock Finish on Rimfire Central (pretty amazing - excellent read and awesome results:
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/sh ... p?t=331108 ).
Time's a-wastin'!!
Cheers, and thanks for the replies,
George J.
Maj, USAF, ret.
Member, SCV
Life Member VFW, DAV, TSRA and MOAA
Benefactor Member, NRA